Creative Woodworks & crafts 2000-10, страница 25

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SUPPLIES

Wood: ash—one piece 3/4" x 8" x 26" (for the antlers); walnut— one piece 3/4" x 4" x 7" (for the eyes, nose, and muzzle); aspen—one piece 3/4" x 6" x 8" (for the neck, ears, nose, and eyes); butternut—one piece 3/4" x 8" x 24" (for the face, ears, and body); basswood— one piece 3/4" x 3" x 8" (for shaded area on the ears); Baltic birch plywooch-one piece 3/4" x 8" x 7" (for the backer); scrap wood—several pieces of various sizes (for spacers) Tools: scroll saw with Nos. 2 and 5 double tooth blades; drill press with assorted sanding drums; oscillating spindle sander; finish sander and flutter wheel with 220 grit paper Graphite paper

White transfer paper (or red, optional) Stylus

Tracing paper or sheet of 5mm clear plastic film

(optional) Sandpaper, assorted grits Wood glue Masking tape Wax paper Double stick tape Quick clamps

Black India ink (for coloring eyes and nose) Matte spray varnish Clear nail polish Sawtooth hanger

INSTRUCTIONS

Since this is an intarsia-on-intarsia project, the head and the antlers are made separately, then overlaid on the body and neck piece. The eyes and nose are cut from dark walnut and then dyed with India ink for color. Other options include using ebony or ebonized stock, however India ink is the easiest and most economical way of achieving this look.

The outside lower points on both the left and right antlers are made separately, then cut and applied to each antler prior to contouring. Remember grain direction in this project will dramatically affect the outcome of your finished piece, so take care to use the photo and the pattern as your guides.

Let's get it on wood

Transfer the pattern for the head assembly onto tracing paper or onto a sheet of 5mm clear plastic film. This will allow you to better judge grain direction as you cut. I prefer to use the plastic film available at local hardware stores. Use the graphite paper and a fine point stylus to transfer the pattern.

Cut and fit

Use a No. 2 blade to cut the muzzle pieces. As you cut each piece, try to stay just outside the traced line. This will give you room to get a nice sanded edge once all cuts have been made. Sand using the drum sander or oscillating spindle sander. Be sure to sand 90 degrees to the platform. Use the finished edge as your template to draw a new, accurate cut line on the adjoining piece. This will ensure a nice fit. Note: use masking tape to hold the pieces together as you progress. Do not attempt to lower or raise any pieces until all parts are cut and you are satisfied with the fit at the 3/4" level.

Raising the buck

Refer to the pattern specifications when raising or lowering each piece. Note: 3/4" represents ground zero. Any dimension on the pattern with a plus or minus sign next to it indicates adding it to or subtracting it from 3/4".

To raise the inside pieces, trace each piece onto the appropriate spacer stock and cut approximately 1/16" inside the traced line, then glue the spacer to the bottom of the piece. Exposed areas should be cut from the same species of wood and sanded flush.

Lower the pieces as indicated by re-sawing to proper height or use the belt sander to remove the excess. In either case, adhere the piece to a larger piece of scrap stock with double stick tape for safety reasons.

Contour and glue

Once all pieces have been raised or lowered to the proper height, begin contouring the outside edges. Draw a line along the higher piece which adjoins it to the lower piece. Using the drum sander, contour the higher piece to the line. The objective here is to create a flow from level to level. Repeat for all parts. Once you are satisfied with the results, begin gluing.

Start in the middle and work your way outward, applying small amounts of glue on the lower portions of each piece. This will help eliminate the possibility of excess glue squeezing out of the joints. Note: it is a good idea to keep a wet sponge handy to wipe off any excess. If you over-apply, a toothpick and thin rag will help to clean the joints.

Attach the head to the body

Transfer the body pieces, making sure to leave a 1" extension around the neck area. This is to ensure that when the head is mounted, the backer material will not show. Using the body as a template, trace the interior neckline on the 3/4" plywood backer, then cut and fit. Clamp the head to the body with quick clamps and allow to dry overnight. Apply three to four coats of matte varnish, sanding lightly between each application. Apply one coat of clear nail polish to the eyes to give them a sparkle. Attach sawtooth hanger and enjoy.