Creative Woodworks & crafts 2003-08, страница 32

Creative Woodworks & crafts 2003-08, страница 32

Fig. 4. Scroll saw setup for cutting wheels and the wheel

continued from page 30

and can "get away" from you if you are not extra careful while you are cutting. It will help to put masking tape on each side of the saw blade to cover the opening in the saw table. This will keep the little pieces from falling out of the bottom side of the saw block as you are cutting. It is important to keep all the little pieces in place until all the sawing is done. This will keep the arms in place inside the block.

Begin with the driver's body. Glue the pattern set on the saw block with the feet at the end of the block as seen in Fig. 1. The first step is to cut between the legs in the front view. Next, finish the front view by going around the driver's body. Put the masking tape on the front and back of the saw block. Finish sawing by doing the side view cutting. It is best to start this final cut at the toe of the foot so the final sawing is easier at the back of the foot. Square up the end of the saw block so it can be used to make the arms.

Glue the patterns for the arms on the saw block with the hands next to the end of the block. Cut the side view first. After taping, use care in cutting the front view so there will be a flat area at the top of each arm where they will be glued to the driver's body. After cutting one of the arms in the front view, stop and add more tape to keep all the little pieces in place while the second arm is finished. If you don't do this, some of the little pieces can shift inside the saw block while you cut the other arm. After cutting around the second arm, it is easier to remove the arms from the saw block if the end of the block is cut off at the top of the patterns. Remove the tape and the arms will be free from all the little pieces. Sand the end of the block square again so the luggage trunks can be cut from the same saw block.

Glue a luggage trunk pattern set on the saw block with the bottom of the trunk at the end of the saw block. Cut the end view first, tape and then cut the front view. Square up the block and repeat to make three luggage trunks. Saw the stagecoach to shape. Fig. 2 shows the window cutting details.

Front view cutting is done in two steps. Start by cutting above the left axle, but only to the side of the coach body. Then go to the other side and cut into the saw block above the right axle. When you get to the side of the coach body, turn up and follow the cut around the front view.

Fig. 3 shows the top view cutting lines that have been drawn on the seat area of the coach body as shown in the top view pattern. This cutting will be done with the bottom of the front and back axles resting on the saw table. Begin at the front edge of the seat and do both sides. Then cut in from both sides to remove the two corners and complete the coach body sawing. Fig. 3 also shows the hole that has been drilled above the center of the front axle for the coach tongue.

Cutting wheels

The wheels are cut about 1/16" thick from the end of the 3/4" wood dowel rod. Fig. 4 shows a wheel being cut with the No. 5 blade in the scroll saw. A 3/4" thick stick of wood has been C-clamped to the saw fable to make a fence so all the wheels are the same thickness.

Finish work

After each item has been cut out, there will be some fuzz on the edges where the saw blade exited the cut at the bottom of the saw stroke. This can be removed by lightly sanding with an emery board or a narrow strip of fine-grit sandpaper. This should be about all that is needed for the luggage trunks.

A rotary sander can also be used if one is available. A small diameter (about 1/8" or smaller) fine stone is best for finishing. A coarse stone (about l/4"-Dia.) will quickly round the corners of the body where more material is removed. The stones need to be "shaped" with a blunt point at the end. This will help in working on small details on legs, arms, or the neck

work. The blunt en d of the stone is being used to finish details of the stage driver's head.

area of the stage driver as seen in Fig. 5. Finish up with a small diameter fine stone. Where necessary, the final finishing can also be done with the emery boards, strips of sandpaper, or small needle or riffler files.

At this point, glue tie arms in place one at a time. Put a drop of super glue on the surfaces to be joined and press and hold the arm in place for a moment while the glue sets up. It may help to "touch" the arm in place to get the super glue spread evenly on the mating surfaces, and then put the two parts together a moment later. The stage driver's arms should both be extended to the front.

ting and the 3-D items after rial out of the windows. Shims

sawing is done. are put into the saw kerf to help

hold the unfinished coach body in place in ths saw block.

Fig. 3. Top view cutting lines have been drawn on the seat area. Note the tongue hole has been drilled above the front axle,

14 • Creative Woodworks S. Crafts August 2003

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