Creative Woodworks & crafts 2004-04, страница 75

Fig. 1. Mount the blank between centers on a mandrel. Any turning that has a hole central to the project must be turned this way. My mandrel is a little more elaborate than need be. Yours can consist of just a 1/2"-Diameter dowel rod mounted in a drill chuck.

INSTRUCTIONS

Wood selection

I used two exotic woods—camateo and cocobolo—for my ro~e holders simply because . had the wood on hand. However, I do think that the exotic woods are better cnoices for turning projects because they cut cleaner, are far easier to sand, and take a polish much boiler than the softer domestic woods. However, you should use whatever wood you have on hand.

In addition, I usee a prece of Colorwooc because it c!so turns and sands well. And, I think it brings a whole different look to the project. Remember: if you do choose to use Colorwood, grain orientation is important. The grain has to be running with the long dimension, between center's. Otherwise, you will be frying to turn :he end grain with less-lhan-accepf-cble results.

I designed end turned three different note holders. The procedure for turning each of the designs is pretty similar, so I have detailed only one in its entirety.

Start with the hole

As with all turnings that have a hole central to the project, you must drill the hole first and then "turn 'round the hole." Therefore, a mandrel will be needed to turn this project. Since I will probably make scores of these holders, I made mine a little more elaborate than need be. All that is really necessary, however, is a short length of 1/2" dowel secured in a drill chuck that has beer mounted in the head-stock of the lathe.

Begin the project by finding the centers on the ends of a blank that measures 1-1/2" square x 2" in length. Then, mark the center points with a sharp awl. Using a 1/2" brad point drill bit set up in the drill press, drill a hole approximately 3/16" deep in one end. The magnet will eventually be glued into this recess.

Turning the project

Turn the blank round. I used a large roughing gouge to accomplish this (see Fig. 1).

Remove approximately 1/16" of material from the base of the b ank at "he headsfock end. This is necessary in order to square up the blcnk with the hole. In addition, the blank should be just slightly undercut so the base of the holder does not have a "belly" in it (which would prevent it from sitting

flat). Use a very sharp parting tool to accomplish this; make the cut slowy to ge~ the oest surface finish possible.

Begin by laying out the major transition points: Drew lines 5/16", 7/8', and 1-1/2" (respectively) away from the headstock end of the lathe (see Fig. 2). The 5/16" line is the separation

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Fig. 2. Draw the three reference lines on the blank.

Creative Woodworks & C-afts April 3004 • 75