Creative Woodworks & crafts 2004-08, страница 8

Pattern Located in Full Size Pattern Section No. 1!

Kodiak Bear

| pattern by Jacob Fowler, cut and finished by Wayne Fowler

SUPPLIES

Wood: mid to dark brown hardwood (e.g. brown oak, willow, butternut or similar)—one piece 1 /2" to 3 /4" x 10-l/2"x 8"

Tools: scroll saw with a No. 2R and/or 5R blade; drill and/or drill press with assorted bits; fixed disc or belt sander with fine or extra fine (120/220) disc or belt; access to photocopier Temporary-bond spray adhesive (such as3M 777

adhesive) 1 /4 sheet of 220-grit sandpaper Finishing oil of your choice (e.g. tung, walnut, etc.)

Introduction

We have looked into designing some bears for a while because we get asked for them often at craft shows. We decided to start big with a kodiak bear and work down to smaller local bears. Besides, black bears don't have a lot of detail to make a very interesting pattern. Kodiaks are big and fuzzy, and Jacob took advantage of this in the pattern. If you can find a bigger piece of wood, this design looks very impressive when enlarged and done 10" or 12" high.

This piece is designed to fit inside of a finished rectangle, but it could be fit into an oval by adjusting the interior to the right and above the bear to an oval shape.

The finished bear was cut from a piece of butternut I found at an outdoor booth at a local wooa show. The board had lots of knots and flaws, but the hole around the bear made it possible to both avoid and take advantage of them for a little character.

INSTRUCTIONS

Make a photocopy of the pattern and glue it to the wood. I recommend using clear packing tape on top of the pattern to reduce the burn from the tight turns you will have to make when cutting the pattern. For cutting, I recommend using a No. 5 or No. 2 reverse tooth blade to reduce chipping on the bottom of the piece.

After you have drilled the guide holes and cut out the fret pieces, either peel the pattern off or use a solvent such as paint thinner to remove it. Let the piece dry before you sand its front and back on a disc or belt sander. This is your chance to ensure that the frame is square and straight by sanding out any bumps on the outside frame. I find that then using a 1/4 sheet of 220-grit sandpaper is a good way of removing any remaining burs and lightly rounding the edges in order to give the piece a more finished look. Clean the bear using your'favorite tool of»choice (I use a clean paintbrush). Finish with a thin oil to seal the inner edges (I use either walnut or tung oil).

Display Option: If you are planning to display your piece on a shelf, it could be mounted on a rectangular base (approximately 10-1/2" x 2") using two dowels or screws through either end. I use a roundover router bit to give my bases a more finished look. Another option would be to round the ends of the base before routing to give it a more professional look.

Send questions concerning this project to: Wayne Fowler, 33 Longmeadow Cres, Markham, Ontario, Canada L3R 356. Email: fantasiesisaw@rogers.com

8 • Creative Woodworks & Crafts August 2004