Creative Woodworks & crafts 2005-09, страница 24

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If you ore new fo spirals, fry not to turn the wood around the blade. Because spirals don't have an area you can push against to pivot your wood, they will cut in whatever direction you push. Instead, use the blade like a pencil to trace the line, using the entire cutting surface a spiral offers. I make cs many cuts pulling the wood towards me as I do pushing it into the blade. Some people say that spirals are impossible to control and you shouldn't use them: however, there are a bunch of scrollers out there who use them, including me. I will let my work speak for itself as to whether or not a spiral can be controlled. Like anything else, they take getting used to, but now that I have tried them, I won't ever go back!

Take your time and let the blade do the cutting. As with any other scrolling project, start somewhere in the center and work out into solid wood. If you start to get a bit nervous about the way the wood "bends" (and it will) toward the end of cutting, try running some clear tape from the fop of the piece to the bottom in a few areas, crossing over the area where you have already cut the strength out of the wood. This will allow you to see the pattern, while adding some stability.

After completing the cutting, I recommend using an air compressor to blow the dust out before you take the stack apart. This helps prevent any of those long pieces from breaking off. When you are ready, take a deep breath and unpack the stack by peeling the tape from the back of the stack back up to the pattern side. After carefully separating the pieces, blow the dust out again, only this time from both the front and back. CAUTION: Do not blow this piece without placing something solid behind it for support. Also, be sure to turn your pressure down to about 40PSI.

There are still a few stops left on our joumey through this cutting, but we are getting closer to the end of the line!

You now have a couple of completed cuttings that would be absolutely wonderful if not for those dcrn fuzzies! Here is the easiest and fastest way I have found for getting rid of them. Select a piece of scrap wood that you don't mind getting damaged. Make sure it is big enough to cover the entire cutting. I use a 1 x 12 scrap piece of yellow pine, but whatever you have that is big enough should be just fine. Stand the scrap piece up on your bench (I use my drill index behind it to keep it from falling over), and then place the cutting with the back facing you against the scrap wood. Here's the part that might shock you a bit. Grab a propane torch! I use a bernzomatic plumber's torch, but you could also use a pen torch. Turn the flame way down and QUICKLY wave it back and forth across the back of the cutting.

There are a few safety concerns we'll address here before going info too much detail. First and foremost, be careful. A propane torch burns much hotter than a standard lighter flame and will start a fire in a hurry. If you have used any solvents on your wood at all up to this point, don't try this method. The solvents are all extremely flammable and could result in disaster. As far as technique goes, be sure the scrap wood extends beyond the edges of the piece in all directions. If the flame goes through the cutout areas and hits the scrap wood, it will have a much less damaging effect on the front of the piece than if it jusf went through the cuts with nothing to stop it on the other side, and it will go a long way towards eliminating scorch

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marks on the front. Also, keep the torch moving quickly. Make several passes but don't hold the torch in one place or you will burn through, especially on the thin areas which burn very fast. When you think you have most of the fuzzies charred, lay the piece flat and gently rub the back with a piece of 220-grit sandpaper to remove the ones that may remain. Carefully blow the dust and charred fuzzies off again using the air compressor. Examine the piece closely, and if you can still see fuzzies, repeat the process. Should you find some minor charring on the front, fold a piece of 220-grit sandpaper in half and run it in the cut on the front side of the piece. It will quickly remove all but the worst scorches. This process will not work if you intend for both sides of your cutting to be seen, but because we are adding a backer, it will do nicely for us here.

Are you ready to unveil your masterpiece and remove the pattern? To do so, use a spray bottle filled with mineral spirits and mist the paper thoroughly. Let it soak in for about five minutes, and then you should be able to peel the paper off in one piece. Remove the tape from the edges, and mist the entire piece one more time. This time rub gently with the balls of your fingers to remove any stubborn glue or paper that might remain. I know you are thinking that mineral spirits will discolor your wood, but that's not true. Let it dry thoroughly (overnight is best) before applying your finish, and, after they are finished, you won't be able to tell the difference between the piece you used the mineral spirits on and the one you didn't. For a final finish, spray the piece front and back with two coats of lacquer.

I usually use felt for my backer bccausc I like the texture of it, but use whatever you like. It was suggested to me that I might want to try mat board from the frame shop as it is easier to clean dust off of, so that is what I did with this piece. The jury is still out on that decision for me. I am not yet sure whether i like it as much as the felt or not. I have found that the color black works best, but use whatever backer you feel completes your cutting best. Normally, I use Aleene's tacky glue to mount my backer board. In this case, however, I chose to use spray mount adhesive to help hold all the little pieces in. Use whatever product you like the best.

I personally frame all of my pieces in professionally made frames: it's easier to do than you think. If you can find a reasonable frame wholesaler in your area, I would recommend giving it a try. It really adds that special finishing touch to something you have invested so much of yourself in. The cutting deserves it, and so do you!

I hope you enjoy the challenge this pattern presents and that you will share your cutting of it with us. Remember lo enjoy the experience. Good luck and happy scrolling!

Jeff has been scrolling for about two years and designing for a little over a year. He is an accomplished artist with scroll saw works hanging in four different galleries nationwide. Jeff says that he owes a great dea/ fo Tom Mullane for his guidance and teachings. To see more of Jeff's work, visit his website, www.advancedscrollsawpatferns.com. For questions or comments, email him at: jeff@advanced-scrollsawpatterns.com, or send a SASE to: 247 Lyle Road, Rossvi/fe, GA 30741

Creative Woodworks fi. Crafts September 2005 • 57