Popular Woodworking 2000-06 № 115, страница 51

IL_I I_I

12W 12T/4" TT

2 3/4"

2 3/4"

34"

Web Frame, Plan View

it to the bit from the first, making a extra-long screwdriver. Use this "super" driver to mark a point on the top web frame, positioning the screw location as close to the end of the top as possible.

With the location marked, lift the carcase off the top and make clearance-screw slots to accommodate wood movement in the top. Drill out the ³/4"-long elongated slots in the top web frame by using a V4" bit. Drill three holes and connect them, forming a slot, by wiggling the bit back and forth. Also, drill four countersunk clearance holes in the front rail of the top-web frame. This keeps the top indexed to the front of the dresser. Now attach the top.

Drawers

Measure the drawer openings in the carcase and compare them to the drawer front sizes in the Schedule of Materials. If all went well, your drawer openings shouldn't be more than ¹/16" larger than the length and height of the fronts. The drawers are held together by dovetail joints, and unless you want to hand cut the drawer dove-

tails, I recommend Troy Sexton's method for cutting half-blind pins that uses a router and a custom template you can make quickly with your table saw (September 1999 issue). After cutting and fitting the tails, cut a V2" x V4" rabbet in the back end of the drawer sides to accommodate the back piece, which will be nailed between the sides. Then cut a V4" x V4" groove ⁵/s" up from the bottom edge of the drawer sides and front, to accept the bottom.

PLACING AND INSTALLING DRAWER STOPS

Where you put your drawer stops is critical. Here's the right way to do it.

Assembling the carcase is a simple matter of setting an end panel on its side and screwing the web frames in place with glue. Make sure the back edge of the frame is flush with the inside of the rabbet on the panel leg.The bottom edge of the web frame end is also flush with the bottom edge of the rails on the end panel (top). Lay the top, bottom side up and place the carcase, upside down, on the top. Line up the carcase, flush to the back and centered on the top and mark the location.Tap a nail into the screw slot centers, marking the screw location. Remove the carcase and drill pilot holes into the top. Place the carcase on the top again and attach the top with #'0-' '/2" pan-head screws (left).

To make the drawers match the side panels, rout a ¹/4" cove profile on the drawer fronts. The final preparation before assembly is to take a ¹/16" jointer cut on the top edge of the drawer sides and back for clearance in the drawer opening.

Assemble the drawers by gluing the dovetail joints together and nailing the backs between the sides into the rabbets. Fitting is a matter of taking material off the sides or the edges of the front with a sharp plane. When the drawers are fit and the stops installed (see story below), remove the back. Sand everything to 150 grit and apply two or three coats of clear f inish. Clear f inish produces a distinctive warm, orange tone. Oil finishers beware. Oil finishes can turn yew a chocolate brown. So you might want to try a sample board and make sure it's what you want. PW

supplies

Van Dyke Supply Co. Inc. 800-843-3320

Traditional l⁵/8" x l⁷/8" pull • set of eight • item # 60030 • $4.45 each

Set the drawer stops by measuring the thickness of the front at both sides of the drawer.

Mark these distances on the web frames with a sharp pencil. Make an additional mark away from the drawer guide to provide clearance for the drawer side.

Apply glue to the stop and set it on the web frame up to the pencil marks. Nail it in place and check the location by sliding a drawer up against it. If it's too far forward, do some fitting with a chisel. If it's too far back, it's not too soon after shooting it into place to remove it and try again.