Popular Woodworking 2000-06 № 115, страница 57
Profile of front leg 5/8" ft 7/8"- Offset centers for side spokes 4 1/2" CL 4 1/2" 4 9/16" 1 5/16" notch •x; ■X) 1 1/2" 1/2" 2 1/2" CL 4 1/2" CL 4 1/2" CL 3 1/2" 23" >—> 1 5/8" el. This keeps the arms from twisting. Now drill 5/16" holes and peg the top slat. I carve square-headed pegs out of walnut. Then cut the top of the back legs off where they look good and trim the ends with the carving knife. Fitting the Arm On one of the arm blanks draw the shape of the arm and cut it out. Use this arm as the pattern for the other arm. Drill a 5/8" hole in the front of the arm to receive the tenon on the top of the front leg. Smooth and shape the arm with a drawknife. Fit the back tenon and bevel all exposed corners of the arm with the carving knife. On the underside of the arm counter sink the hole to match the bevel on the shoulder of the front leg tenon. Assemble the arm dry and mark the tenon at the top surface of the arm. I use a "cookie" to cap the front leg tenon. The DRYING GREEN SPOKES As mentioned earlier, using a combination of dried wood and green wood improves joint strength. While air-drying works well with the legs, to have the spokes dry enough to be captured by the shrinking green wood of the legs,they must be dried further. But it's important to dry the spokes correctly to avoid splitting, warping and checking. In my shop,the spokes are stacked up on my counter so that each spoke will get plenty of air circulation around it.After the spokes have air dried like this for a month or more I take them home and bake them in the oven to get them "kiln" dried.With the spokes spaced out on the oven shelves I set the dial on warm (my oven door naturally stays ajar without a 2x4 against it).The oven is left on for a few hours and then turned off for a few hours. This cycle is repeated several times and sometimes I even leave the oven on overnight. Spokes are easy to dry and there are lots of ways of doing it. In previous houses I stored the spokes in the space above the water heater and in a box on top of a gas refrigerator where I kept the air-dried spokes for a week.The key to drying spokes is to do it slowly, in stages, with lower temperatures and lots of air movement. After drilling the starter hole and cutting out the waste, I clean up the rocker notch in the legs with a chisel. cookies are made out of walnut and have a dome shape with a diameter of about 13/4". I rough them out on a lathe and finish them off with a carving knife. A 5/8" hole is drilled in the bottom of each to fit the tenon. Check the depth of the hole in the cookie, then trim the top of the tenon if it is too long. Remove the arm and make a saw cut to form the wedged tenon in the front leg. Make the cut perpendicular to the side spokes and cut down past the mark that you made earlier by about 1/8" or so. Now, out of some dry hardwood, make a wedge to fit this slot. Make sure it isn't too long or it'll hang up the cookie, not too thick or it may split the cookie, and not too thin or it won't spread the tenon enough to keep everything together tight. Glue the mortises, assemble the arm with the wedge in place, then carefully drive the cookie home with the mallet. As the cookie covers the tenon it will force the wedge in place. Scrape or whittle off any unsightly marks and put a coat of finish on the frame. I like using 100 percent Tung oil (make sure it says this on the label). It is non-toxic and can be left to soak in overnight before being rubbed down. Also this kind of finish is Plan of seat frame > CL 17 5/8" |
