Popular Woodworking 2003-12 № 138, страница 12
WGDDCRAFT UNIVERSITY / here's a Woodcraft University location near you
WGDDCRAFT For your local woodcraft store, visit www.woodcraft.com, or for a free catalog, call 800 542-9115 Dept.03PW12BE CIRCLE NO. 157 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD Letters Another Hand-saw Answer: Cut it Off One Sailor's Father Found His Own Answer to the Hand-saw Debate Re: "Japanese Saws vs. Western Saws" (October 2003): As a young sailor in Japan in 1950, I mailed my family some small gifts. For my father, I picked a beautiful traditional ryoba hand saw, as he did a little woodworking now and then. I recall the saw cost me 200 yen (about 60 cents). I returned home a couple of years later and asked my father how he liked the saw. His reply was, "Some idiot put the handle on the wrong end" and he told me he cut the handle off and riveted it back on the other end. My father Westernized an Eastern saw. I never used the saw, and I don't think it would work very well. I retired from the Navy in 1966 and now have a small home wood-shop. Mostly I make sawdust, new curse words and mistakes. I take in several woodworking magazines and yours is the best. But I am sick of tool reviews - I want projects and ideas and new ways to make sawdust. J.H. Wheeler Hialeah, Florida Do I Really Need to Upgrade my Chipbreakers for New Planes? I enjoyed your review of the Lie-Nielsen chipbreakers (Tool Test, October 2003) and have a question: I recently purchased a Lie-Nielsen No. 5 and a Lie-Nielsen No. 41/2 (both new before the upgraded chipbreaker was available but with A2 cryogenic irons). Would there be a measurable improvement to either plane with an upgraded chipbreaker? Ed Wald Bensalem, Pennsylvania Editor's Note: I purchased both sizes of chip-breakers from Lie-Nielsen. They really make a difference when you're dealing with the high-tolerance planing involved with a smoother, such as your No. 41/2. It's overkill on a jack plane unless you are using it for fine finishing cuts like a smoothing plane (which I do sometimes). If I had to buy only one size, I'd get the one for your No. 4^2. But I bet that once you see how nice it is, you'll want one for your No. 5, too. — Christopher Schwarz, executive editor What Happens to the Waste Pieces When You're Cutting Miters? In "10 Tricks for Tight Joints" (October 2003), Jim Stack says that when cutting a miter, the waste is between the 45° sawblade and the fence. Wouldn't this pinch, burn or send a "chunk" at the person doing the cutting? Bob Walters Portland, Oregon Editor's Note: Jim's method works really well. I've used it myself for years and am astonished how easy it makes cutting miters. On to your question: Yes, the waste is between the blade and fence. While we often hear this is a no-no, it's not a big deal with this operation for two reasons. First, because the workpiece is so long, the waste piece likely won't get thrown back at you - it weighs too much. Second, if it does come at you, it shouldn't hit you if you are standing where you should be (out of the line of the blade). continued on page 12 WRITE TO US Popular Woodworking welcomes letters from readers with comments about the magazine or woodworking in general. We try to respond to all correspondence. Published letters may be edited for length or style. All letters become the property of Popular Woodworking. How to send your letter: • E-mail: popwood@fwpubs.com • Fax:513-891-7196 • Mail carrier: Letters • Popular Woodworking 4700 E. Galbraith Road Cincinnati, OH 45236 10 Popular Woodworking December 2003 |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
