Popular Woodworking 2004-02 № 139, страница 21

The width of the plane's body is less than the blade. The blade fits flush with the right side of the plane, but it protrudes the extra ¹/64" on the left side. Is there a purpose for this or should I just grind down the left side of the blade so it fits flush with the plane?

James Brimm Cookeville, Tennessee

The extra width allows you to fudge the blade left or right if it isn't ground square. But ¹/64" is more than you need. Grind the edges of the blade so it's .006" to .010" wider than the plane's body. That will be all the adjustment you'll require. When you trim a shoulder using the right side of the tool, move the blade so it's flush on the right side. When you trim a shoulder using the left side, flush the blade with the left side.

— Christopher Schwarz, executive editor

How Can I Determine if a Species Of Wood is Toxic to Humans?

I'm developing a product that is made using mango wood (a cutting board with a lemon oil finish) and I need to know if mango wood is food-safe. Can you help me?

James Pettingill Concord, Massachusetts

The leaves and twigs are indeed toxic; ingesting the leaves or twigs is fatal to cattle. The sap is a skin irritant much like poison ivy. The wood should never be burned. Whether enough of the sap could ever contaminate food might be a matter of some debate, but why risk it when there are so many other species of wood available?

Whenever we have a question about the tox-icity of a particular species, the first place we consult is an online list from the Musical Instrument Makers Forum (mimf.com/archives/toxic.htm). Though mango isn't here, the list is always a good jumping-off place for your research.

— Christopher Schwarz, executive editor

Can I Use Hardboard for Splines?

I read with interest the Power-tool Joinery column in the October 2003 issue titled "Splined Joints." I was surprised you didn't suggest using ^1/8" hardboard for splines. I have been using hardboard because all the cabinetmakers I know also use hardboard. It's stable, takes glue well and is consistent in size so you can make a pass through the table saw with a V8" kerf and the hardboard

will fit in its groove every time. It always fits, holds well and is easy to use.

Bob Mesenbring Grand Marais, Minnesota

You're right. Hardboard is cheap, accurate in thickness, stable and very easy to use. If you intend for your spline to be solely an alignment device, it is a good option and I probably should have mentioned that. However, if you want your spline to also serve as reinforcement for the joint, you shouldn't use hardboard. Hardboard has no grain, so it can't be said to reinforce the joint, while plywood, solid wood and biscuits all have grain that can help you here.

— Bill Hylton, PW contributor

How Do I Scrape Small Mouldings?

I wanted to get your advice on scrapers. I'm building a bed out of curly cherry with 50 narrow slats. Each slat planes or scrapes very nicely, but I want to put an V8" radius on each of them, which is done most easily with a router table. This routed detail has a rougher surface that needs sanding to get it as smooth as the flat planed surfaces.

I'm a huge fan of the depth of finish you get from planing, but I don't know how to get that level of finish on these cherry slats without resorting to sandpaper.

I've tried a cornering tool to cut the radius but I have a hard time with the curly cherry tearing out, so I'm at a loss. Is there a radius scraper? Is having a partly sanded/partly scraped piece noticeable?

Mark Paulek Golden Valley, Minnesota

A commercial gooseneck scraper can do the job. Or you can make your own scraper to clean up that roundover by grinding or filing the shape you want on an old scraper or saw blade. Stone the curved edge as best you can and then turn a burr. It does take practice, but it can be done.

If, after trying this on a few spindles, it still doesn't yield good results, there's no shame in resorting to sandpaper. I routinely sand mouldings that are router-cut. I've found that the surface area of the moulding is usually so small that it's not going to leap out at you anyway. It's the large flat surfaces, especially tabletops and door panels, that benefit most from hand planing and scraping. PW

— Christopher Schwarz, executive editor

popwood.com

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