Popular Woodworking 2004-08 № 142, страница 18
CIRCLE NO. 127 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. If you are in a woodworking business... this could be the most valuable tool in your officesm. Please call 1-800-645-9292 for your 560 page catalog. FREE to woodworking businesses. visit us at woodworker.com CIRCLE NO. 132 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. FURNITURE COMPONENTS STOCK ITEMS • NO MINIMUM CUSTOM COMPONENTS FREE COLOR CATALOG Featuring: Bed Posts Billiard Legs Bun Feet Cabinet Onlays Corbels Finials Island Legs Table Bases Table and Chair Kits Tapered Legs Turned Legs Queen Anne Legs Bun Feet 4 1/2" HI P.O. Box 728, Dept. PW21 Morristown, TN 37815-0728 Phone 423-587-2942 • Fax 423-586-2188 www.adamswoodproducts.com by Americn Craftsmen CIRCLE NO. 142 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. Q&A continued from page 14 What Should I Do if I Glued a Solid-wood Back Into a Rabbet? I'm just completing two Shaker wall clocks of Isaac Youngs' 1840 design, following various plans. I opted to make solid-wood backs and door panels for my clocks. I allowed for wood movement on the back piece and also left the door panel floating. However, I misinterpreted one of the comments in the plans that said to screw the back simply with two screws at top and two at the bottom, and nail the sides. The plans said to put a small dab of glue at the center so the wood will move equally in both directions. Somehow I interpreted this to mean in the sides, not the top and bottom. So I placed a small dab of glue in the center of the side rabbets. Do you think this will affect the case when the clock is subjected to a Midwest summer? David Rata Iowa City, Iowa Chances are that the small dab of glue will fail when the panel expands and contracts with the first big change in humidity. Then the panel will be free to expand and contract with the seasonal changes. The worse-case scenario is that the wood will splinter a bit where the glue is, which might be visible from the inside of the case. — Christopher Schwarz, executive editor What are the Tricks to Making A Door Panel That Remains Flat? Can you tell me how to make a door panel nice and flat? Do you glue up the panel and then thickness it? Or do you thickness the pieces and then glue them up? I use all rough lumber, so warping and twisting are constant problems for me. I doubt I could get a nice flat panel with V2" stock. Joe Ott Lakewood, Ohio There are a number of strategies that have worked remarkably well for me: • I allow my wood to acclimate to my shop's humidity for two weeks before building. • I don't surface the wood to make the panel until the day I'm ready to glue up the door. That is, the rails and stiles for the door are all ready and the joinery is cut. • When I surface the panel stock I remove the same amount of wood from both faces. I do this by planing one face and then the other, switching faces after each pass. This helps equalize the release of tension in the wood. • I then glue up the panel stock and assemble the door as quickly as possible. — Christopher Schwarz, executive editor What Finish is Good for a Workbench? I just finished building my dream workbench. The top is 21/4"-thick oak sawn from planks, each piece turned 90° and then glued up. In effect, it's a quartersawn top. Still, I worry about warping or cupping. I wonder if I should apply some sort of top coat as a sealer against humidity. Bill Jordan Andalusia, Alabama Benches do need a finish. Most people use an oil/varnish blend such as Watco. It's not really much of a film finish, so it doesn't crack when you pound on it. The oil in the finish helps repel water in glue that occasionally drips on your bench. And the finish is easily and quickly renewable every six months or so. Finish the top and underside of the benchtop. — Christopher Schwarz, executive editor Can I Use My Planer to Get All My Parts to the Correct Width? My question has to do with the final dimensioning of wood. After milling the oak for some rails down to 5/s" thick, I ripped them to width on the table saw. I have noticed that when I cut multiple pieces of identical stock, sometimes I get saw marks on the edge, or the wood might have a slight variance in width when laying all the pieces on their edges. My solution was to joint one edge and then run them all on that edge through my thickness planer. This provided me with perfectly identical rail stock. I wonder if this is considered "wrong" to do. Should I get perfect rip cuts on my table saw, or is it acceptable to achieve my final width by using a planer? Rick Schuster Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania What you've done is perfectly acceptable. In fact, that's why planers can accommodate 6" stock. Just be sure to take off stock from both edges to minimize warping as tension is released. PW — Christopher Schwarz, executive editor 16 Popular Woodworking August 2004 |
