Popular Woodworking 2004-12 № 145, страница 20

Popular Woodworking 2004-12 № 145, страница 20

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Q & A

continued from page 16

2. Corner clamps: One of my biggest mistakes was not correctly transferring my tail layout to my pin board. The corner clamps shown in the article on dovetailing drawers (October 2004, page 93) fixed that problem immediately. It was an excellent $20 fix.

3. Switch to a marking knife: I was using a pencil to lay out everything. My joints got better when I started using a spear-point marking knife. Fine lines make a difference.

4. Learn to darken the lines: Knife lines are hard to see in some woods. Here's how I fixed that: After knifing my lines, I run over them with a mechanical pencil (the version with a .5 mm lead). Its mark is pretty coarse compared to a knife line, so I quickly and lightly run a quality eraser over the line. A fine knife line that's filled perfectly with dark lead is left. It's easy to see and track. I know it sounds like an elaborate procedure, but it takes just a moment.

— Christopher Schwarz, executive editor

Is Static Electricity

In a Dust Collector a Problem?

I am creating a dust-collection system using thin-walled PVC pipe and heard that static electricity is formed when it is in operation. I've heard this is dangerous and I want to know if it's true. If so, what can be done about it?

Bruce D. Johnson Newarkvalley, New York

There have been no definitive studies on the actual dangers of explosions or fires due to static build-up in a dust-collection system. I've spoken with experts in the field, and because of the lack of studies they're unwilling to say one way or the other whether it's a proven danger. Though the concern has been around for years, I've yet to hear or read of any accident that has occurred because of static discharge in a dust-collection system. Bottom line: Until someone proves it one way or another, it's probably best to err on the side of caution and ground your system. Purchase a good book to show you how it's done.

— David Thiel, senior editor

What's the Best Way To Flatten Dished Oilstones?

I have an India oilstone that is 7/8" x 2" x It has fine grit on one side and coarse grit on the other. It is no longer flat due to years of service. I have read there is a method in which some material can be placed on glass and the

stone can be ground flat again. Are you aware of anything such as this? And if so, can you give me the materials and instructions needed to accomplish it?

Billy R. Nichols Anchorage, Alaska

You can indeed flatten an oilstone, but it can be hours of hard work if the stone is severely dished. One of the nice things about oilstones is they wear slowly. But that toughness works against you when it's time to true the stone.

I've used diamond stones (the coarser the better), and I've used #90-grit silicon carbide lapping powder on a cast-iron plate with a lubricant —a little kerosene, mineral oil or mineral spirits. (The powder is available from Lee Valley Tools, 800-871-8158 or leevalley.com). Merely create a thick slurry of the grit and your lubricant, and then rub the stone on the plate. I use circular motions. Check your progress with a straightedge. It's messy and time-consuming work.

After you do it once, you'll probably want to switch to waterstones, which are inexpensive, cut quickly and true easily. I did.

— Christopher Schwarz, executive editor

Is Pressure-treated Lumber a Good Material for a Bird Feeder?

My neighbor has asked if I could make a bird feeder for him, and I am pretty sure I'm going to make it out of Western red cedar or possibly treated lumber. I have several questions: Is treated lumber safe for the birds? And can I use ordinary exterior glue and small brads to hold it together? I don't have a brad nailer, so it'll have to be by hand. Should I use polyure-thane glue, Titebond II or ordinary carpenters' glue? Does polyurethane glue even hold on woods such as redwood or cedar?

Ed Williams Elkhorn, Wisconsin

Treated lumber isn't safe for birds so you should pick something else such as cedar. As far as glue is concerned, Titebond II or III exterior yellow glue, or a polyurethane glue, will work just fine.

Same goes for those nails. Make sure they're rated for exterior use — usually this means that they're hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel. Basically, everything you use to join your parts should be a product that is able to withstand all sorts of weather. PW

— Kara Gebhart, managing editor

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Popular Woodworking December 2004