Popular Woodworking 2005-08 № 149, страница 12
call. Excellence is in the details, and that's what you'll find in the Woodcraft catalog. The Woodcraft catalog has the details. New products every month, name brands, exclusive brands -all the best in woodworking tools, accessories, hardware and finishing. Complete your next project, or outfit a complete shop with hand tools, power tools, accessories and supplies from the Woodcraft catalog. It all comes with our 1 year unconditional satisfaction guarantee. See the Woodcraft catalog for all the details. © Woodcraft Supply Corp. 2005 WOODCRAFT' For your local Woodcraft store, visit www.woodcraft.com, or for a free catalog, call 800 542-9115 Dept. 05PW08B CIRCLE NO. 151 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. Letters Looking for More Details on Finishing Authentic Greene & Greene Finish is Nice, But More Information is Needed I recently read the "Greene & Greene Sideboard" article in the April 2005 issue; it was a nice piece and truly enjoyable. I was interested in the finish you described and wondered if I might entice you to supply me with another bit of information concerning the color mixture. The article was clear regarding the amount of Danish oil, as well as the percentage of the colors to achieve the color balance. But it did not mention the total amount of color compared to oil that's necessary. If you could give me the total weight or volume of the color to use with a pint of oil, I would greatly appreciate it. Jay Goddard Jefferson City, Tennessee Sorry for not being more specific about the color mixing; we were very tight on space for that article. Here's the procedure I followed: I squeezed out a line of the artist's oil color on a piece of scrap wood, using 1" as one part. I had a line of Chrome Yellow 31'/l" long, the line of Raw Umber was 3" long, etc. That's how I kept the proportions straight. To get the color strong enough, I had to double the amounts above. If I were doing it over, I would mark out the proportions on the scrap, and then squeeze out two lines for each color. Also note that the green color I added was just a dab. I don't think you need to be incredibly precise with it, but this should get you close. — Robert W. Lang, senior editor Sawmill Owner Responds to Letter About Cutting Green Wood I have a few comments on Ken Kindle's question of how thick to saw green lumber ("Letters" April 2005). I am an owner of a LT40 Woodmizer and a 20" planer. I have found with this setup I can cut hardwoods to 4/4, air dry them to 10 percent moisture content, and plane them to 7/s" without leaving saw marks. I like the beefier look for traditional Arts & Crafts furniture. Most of what I cut is quartersawn white oak, which reduces the chance of cupping or twisting - although you will get some bowing. Still, even flat-sawn 4/4 boards should be plenty thick to plane to 3/4", as long as the portable band saw mill is cutting accurately. Obviously this leaves you with an Vs" on each side of the board to plane. This can be quickly and efficiently planed, whereas planing 5/4 to 3/4" is a lot of woodchucking for my taste. More importantly for Ken is the stacking and stickering (flat, level and supported) of his lumber during air- and kiln-drying to ensure good quality lumber before he starts the planing process. Each tree is a treasure that provides us with the materials to fulfill our passion. Let's get the most out of each one of them. Ben Moll OakwoodHills, Illinois Sawing 5/4 Adds to Drying Difficulties I disagree with the response David Thiel gave to Ken Kindle regarding the thickness to mill his lumber. Mr. Kindle stated that he wanted to wind up with a finished thickness of 3/4". In all but the rarest cases, 4/4 lumber will finish plane at 13/l6", and it's not uncommon to be able to clean it up at 7/s". At a mill, 4/4 lumber is sawn green at lMs" and it will be about 1 Vl6" after drying. Sawing the rough lumber 5/4 to get 3/4" finished thickness would be wasteful. Furthermore, the thicker the lumber, the more likely Mr. Kindle will have problems drying it, especially if it is something difficult to dry, such as oak. Mr. Kindle asked about mixing species when air-drying but he did not ask the more important question of mixing during kiln drying. The answer is yes, he can kiln-dry mixed species, but the drying rate must be set continued on page 12 10 Popular Woodworking August 1005 |
