Popular Woodworking 2005-08 № 149, страница 18

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Q & A

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I have some rust preventer (Boeshield and also CorrosionX), but that won't help until I get the rust off. Should I use sandpaper to get rid of the rust? What solution do you recommend for this task?

Greg Koukl Los Angeles, California

There are many ways to skin this cat. Here are two ways that work for me: I generally use #0000 steel wool and mineral spirits to remove rust. I've also become fond of the handblock from Sand-Flex. There are three grits (coarse, medium and fine). I use the medium and the fine. They're available from several sources, including Lie-Nielsen Toolworks (800-327-2520 or lie-nielsen. com). Each handblock will last for years.

After removing the rust, I protect the tool with Camellia oil. I keep a rag soaked with the stuff expressly for this purpose. Our tests of rust preventatives didn't put Camellia oil at the top (that would be Fluid Film and WD-40), but I've found the Camellia oil to be well-suitedfor hand tools. It never stains the wood. It's also available from a variety of sources.

— Christopher Schwarz, executive editor

Can I Make a Raised-panel Door With a Veneered Panel in the Middle?

I've seen magazine advertisements, such as one from Freud, where a raised-panel door is made using a veneered board for the center (or field) of the raised panel.

Such a panel would have the edges of the veneer exposed when the profile is made using a raised-panel router bit. One would think that this exposed veneer edge would be susceptible to chipping, and the substrate would be visible. Is there a type of veneer/glue combination that makes this type of panel possible? Or is there a technique by which the veneer edge isn't exposed? I would love to have my cake and eat it, too! That is, to be able to have both the beauty of a raised-panel door and also get the premiere figure found in veneer.

John Pettus Westminster, California

Using a veneered panel in a door is indeed possible . The most common way to accomplish this is to surround the veneered panel with a mitered frame of solid wood — and then cut the raised-panel profile into this frame of solid wood. This is common in the furniture industry.

To do it, you must be precise in sizing the panels and in cutting the edge profile. It works best with a profile that wont leave a quirk at the intersection of the panel and the hardwood. If possible, size the parts so you have ^l/l6" or so of solid wood left against the veneer after the panel is raised.

— Robert W. Lang, senior editor

How Far Apart Should Dog Holes Be?

I just installed a metal vise on the front of the left-hand side of my workbench. The vise itself has a metal vise dog, and in the wooden jaws I built for the vise I put in two holes for Veritas Bench Pups. I thought it would be helpful if I put a couple lines of bench dog holes in the bench to work with the vise, and I was wondering if there is a suggested spacing or interval you would suggest for the most effective placement of the holes.

Todd Marshall via the Internet

In general, you should space your holes a shade less than the maximum opening of your vise. If your vise opens 10", I'd space the holes every 9 ". That way you'll be able to grasp almost anything. The other consideration on spacing is if you're going to ever use the Veritas Wonder Dogs in conjunction with your bench dogs, which work like a tail vise. If so, you'll want to reduce the spacing to 4" to accommodate these devices.

— Christopher Schwarz, executive editor

Caring for Danish Oil

What is the best way to maintain and clean a piece of furniture finished with Danish oil?

Jeremy Graham Bend, Oregon

You care for a Danish oil finish the same way you care for any finish. You can clean water-soluble dirt (dried soda spills, children's fingerprints) by wiping with a water-dampened cloth. You can clean solvent-soluble dirt (grease or wax) by wiping with mineral spirits or a furniture polish.

You can maintain the finish by applying paste wax, which will provide long-term shine and scratch resistance, or by applying a furniture polish, which will provide short-term shine and scratch resistance. You can also apply additional coats of Danish oil, or you can apply any other finish you would like as long as the Danish oil on the wood is cured — at least a week.

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Popular Woodworking August 1005