Popular Woodworking 2006-10 № 157, страница 31

Setting your marking gauge to the tool lets you use the width of your chisel to determ ine the width of the mortise.

Clamp the leg securely to your bench and chop halfway through. Then flip the leg over and complete the mortise

from the other side.

chisel, as shown at left, then move your fence so the cutters are centered in the stretchers and mark them. Do the same with the seat rails. Reset your marking gauge and mark the legs. Make sure you are in the middle. Clamp the leg to your bench and start chopping. Stay away from the pencil line and take V8" chips. Keep going deeper and pry out your chips. When you are halfway through, do the final cut on the line. Turn it over and do the same from the other side. You can clean your hole with a rasp.

For the tenon, I use a bowsaw, as seen at left. I clamp the pieces in my bench and cut them making sure I am on the line. If you do not have a bowsaw, use your tenoning saw. I cut on the waste side, leaving the tenon snug. To cut the shoulders I use a dovetail saw, as seen in the center photo below. I bevel all four sides of the ends of the tenons with a chisel. Try the fit and adjust with the rasp and chisel until it is just right. It should be tight along the width, not from end to end.

Mortiser and Table Saw

To mortise with a hollow-chisel mortiser, mark your legs the same way. You do not need a marking

I use a traditional European bowsaw to cut the tenons by hand.

An alternative to the bowsaw is a tenon saw, filed for ripping.

A dovetail saw, filed for crosscutting, is used to make the shoulder cuts.

The hollow-chisel mortiser will save some time in marking because the fence on the machine will center the cut.

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Popular Woodworking October 2006