35 - Revolving Tool Station, страница 25
ROUNDOVER READ OGEE ft common types of profiles are shown in the drawings above. But there's more to choosing a set of stile and rail bits than selecting the profile. In fact, you may not want to get a set of bits at all. Let me explain. individual bits. There are also individual bits available that are designed to make both stile and rail cuts. While these bits accomplish the same thing, they go about it in different ways, see boxes at right. shank size. Regardless of the type of bit, one thing to keep in mind is the size of the shank. Typically, stile and rail bits are only available with a V2"-dia. shank. So in most cases, you'll need a router with a collet that accepts V211 bits. The only exception is a set of matched stile and rail bits with V4" shanks that are manufactured by Freud. (Currently, these bits are only available with the roundover profile.) No matter what size shank you get, the body of the bit that supports the cutting edge is pretty beefy. So as with any large bit, the speed of the router plays an important part in the performance of the bit. router speed. What I've found works best is to run the router at a relatively slow speed (about 10,000-12,000 rpm). This not only provides a safer cut, but it also reduces the chance of the bit burning the wood — especially when using the rail bit to cut end grain. The only drawback to running-he bits at a slow speed is you'll need a router with variable speed control. (Or you can get a separate speed control for a single-speed router.) sources. Stile and rail bits are available in many woodworking stores and catalogs, refer to Sources on page 31. At Combination Bit first, the price of these bits may seem a bit steep (they range in price from $60 to $130). But if you're building a number of doors, they're worth the cost. & This combination stile and rail bit has one big advantage over a matched set of bits — you don't need to switch bits between cuts. That's because the parts of the bit that make the stile cut and the rail cut are both — stacked on a single shank. To make a stile cut, you raise the bit and use the cutters on the lower part of the bit, see top drawing. Simply lowering the bit and using the cutters on the top part of the bit allows you to make the rail cut, see bottom drawing. Note: A source for this bit is listed on page 31. Reversible Bit IPHHIHHMHHI No. 35 ShopNotes 25 A reversible stile and rail bit also combines both cutters on a single shank. But that's where the similarity ends. To switch from the stile cut (top drawing) to the rail cut (bottom), you have to disassemble the bit and swap the cutters around. This sounds okay in theory. But in practice, it usually involves quite a bit of fiddling around with metal shims (spacers) to get a perfect fit. For sources of reversible bits, see page 31. RAIL CUT MADE WITH PROFILE CUTTER ON TOP STILE CUT MADE WITH PROFILE CUTTER ON BOTTOM STILE CUT |
