68 - Our All-New Router Jig, страница 31

68 - Our All-New Router Jig, страница 31

SHOP PROJECT

the bottom edge to hold the V4" plywood bottom (P), as in Figure 8a. And second, I've found when making drawers it's easiest to drill holes for mounting the false fronts before assembly (Figures 8 and 8b).

Spacers - After gluing up each drawer, there's one last thing to do before installing them. And that's to add a couple spacers to the inside of the cart. The spacer (Q) fills out the side assembly to provide a smooth, even surface for installing the drawer slides, as in Figures 9 and 9a.

Install Drawers - After gluing the spacers in place, you're ready to install the drawers. To install the full-extension, metal slides, you'll need to separate each one into two parts. Then you can screw one half to the

Hardware

#8 x 1" Fh Sheet Metal Screws

»(12)

#8> x f/4" Fh Sheet Metal Screws

'(15)

#& x 2" Fh Sheet Metal Screws

'(16)

#14 x 3U" Fh Sheet Metal Screws

0 (2 pr.)

20" Full-Extension Drawer

Slides w/Screws

o(2)

4" Drawer Fulls w/Screws

o(2)

5" Locking Swivel Casters

o(2)

5" Swivel Casters

cart and the other half to the drawer so the slides are flush with the bottom edge of each drawer (Figure 7b). Note: The half of the slide installed in the cart is set back Vs" to allow for the lip of the false fronts that are added next (Figure 7a).

False Fronts - With the drawers in place, all that's left to complete them is to add some rabbeted false fronts (R, S). The rabbets make it easy to install the false fronts so they're perfectly aligned.

When sizing the false fronts, allow for a V4" overlap on the top, bottom, and sides, and an Vs" gap between the drawers. Then you can rabbet the top and sides of the small false front, and the bottom and sides of the large false front. (There are no rabbets where the false fronts meet.)

To ease the edges of the false fronts, I rounded over the outside face of the same edges that were rabbeted, as you can see in Figure 7.

Now, you can screw the false fronts to the drawers. Then center a pull on each false front and screw it in place, as you see in Figure 7.

Materials

Cart

A Stiles (4)

V/2 x 3V2 - 25

B Center!Bottom Rails (4)

1V2 x 51/2 - 22

C Upper Rails (2)

V/z x V/2 - 22

D Side Panels (2)

y/2 x 22 - 3U MDF

E Filler Strips (4)

'/2 x3U-&

F Shelf./Bottom Panel (2)

19 x 2&/2 - z/a MDF

G Edging

3U x 3/a - 25 Ln. Ft.

H Divider (1)

123U x 7^/4 - 3U MDF

1 Top (1)

22 x 50^/2 - 3U MDF

J Cleats (5)

V/2 x V/2 - 19

K Caster Plates (2)

3Ux 5^/2-22

Drawers

L Small Drawer Front/Back (2)

?/2 x 51/2 -17/2

M Small Drawer Sides (2)

V2 x 51/2 - 20

N Large Drawer Front/Back (2)

1/2X 7</2 -IF/2

0 Large Drawer Sides (2)

V2 x 7/2 - 20

P Drawer Bottoms (2)

17/2 x 19^/2 -1/4 Fly.

Q Spacers (2)

3/& x VU - 17 /a

R Small Drawer False Front (1)

3U x 43/l6 - 191/2

S Large Drawer False Front (1)

3/4x83/i6'191/2

T Cubby Front (1)

3UX$1&-19P/A

TOP VIEW

stile

No. 68

ShopNotes 31

Cubby - All that's left at this point is to install a "false front" to form the cubby at the back of the cart, as you can see in the photo above.

Like the large false front, the cubby front (T) is rabbeted to form a lip and rounded over on the bottom and ends (Figures 10a and 10b). Then, it's simply glued in place.

Finish - After wiping on a couple coats of an oil finish, your new "helper" will be ready to lend a hand in the shop. The nice thing is, he won't need a break, and you won't hear any complaints.

CUBBY FRONT

(3/4" x 3V&" -193/4")

A Storage Cubby. Adding a "false front" to the opening at the back of the cart creates a handy storage area for often-used items.