68 - Our All-New Router Jig, страница 4TIPS & TECHNIQUES Readers1 TipsPlywood Scoring Tool_ ■ When I cut plywood with a circular saw, I typically use a straightedge guide like the one shown in the drawing to the right (featured in issue No. 55). The hardboard bottom prevents one side from chipping out on the finished edge. The problem is the waste side. That side usually splinters and can be unusable for other projects. The best way to get around this is to score the top veneer of the plywood before making the cut. To do this, I made the scoring tool shown in the photo. The tool is nothing more than a scrap of MDF with a utility knife blade mounted in a shallow recess, as in detail 'a.' The blade is attached with two roundhead screws so that just the tip is exposed. And to keep the tool square and upright, I added a short support piece. The depth of the recess is equal to the width of a saw blade (detail 'b'). When you pull it along the straightedge, the tool scores the waste side of the cut. Fred DeHoff Portland, Indiana SCORING plywood prevents tearout on waste side when crosscutting b. straightedge guide width of ^_saw blade waste side straightedge guide Auxiliary Fence Support Get more woodworking tips free. Visit us on the Web at StiopNotesxom Sign up to receive a free shop tip by email every week. S3 There are many times when I need to attach a long auxiliary fence to the miter gauge on my table saw for extra support. But the weight of the auxiliary fence causes the miter gauge to tilt and catch on the corner of the saw table. Besides being annoying, it can cause an uneven cut. To get around this problem, I added an extension arm to the edge of the table. As you can see in the drawing, it's nothing more than a hardwood guide that supports the miter gauge fence and keeps it from tipping when it's unsupported by the saw table. To make one, begin by making a T-slot from three pieces of hardwood, as in detail 'a.' Next cut a thin strip of wood to fit inside the slot and act as a rail for the extension arm. I attached the rail to the edge of the saw table with machine screws and nylon bushings. What you're looking for is to have the extension arm flush with the table. And to get a smooth, sliding action, you can rub some wax on the rail. Finally to keep the arm from being pushed along by the weight of the auxiliary miter fence, I installed a threaded insert in the arm and thenj a thumb screw to lock it in place. Eric Johnson Edgeivood, Kentucky No. 68 |