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A Apply Glue. For best adhesion, apply two coats of contact cement to the laminate and the substrate. Right Size. It's a good idea to cut the laminate a bit larger than the substrate (about V - on all sides). This way, it's easier to glue down and you can trim it flush with a router later. GLUING After cutting the laminate to size, it's ready to be glued to the substrate. Wood glue works fine, but if you're gluing large sheets, I find contact cement works best. To ensure the strongest bond, I apply two coats to both the back of the laminate and the substrate, letting each coat dry before "sticking" the laminate to the substrate (photo above). You'll need to be careful at this point, since once you put the laminate and substrate together, you A Filing Edges. Downward and outward strokes of a flat mill file make smooth edges. A J-Roller. Use a roller over the entire surface to apply pressure and eliminate air pockets. can't move them. I use old Venetian blinds (main photo on opposite page) to keep the laminate from making contact. Then starting at one end, I remove the strips one by one while pressing the laminate down. Finally, use a J-roller, like you see in the photo above, over the surface. This applies pressure and removes air pockets for a smooth surface. One thing you'll need to consider is once you glue the laminate to one surface, that side of the workpiece will be less affected by humidity than the other side. This can cause the workpiece to warp. So if the substrate is thin or can't be secured to an underlying structure, you may want to apply laminate to both sides. If the face isn't going to be visible, you can APPLY TOP LAMINATE LAST TRIMMING The only tiling left is to trim the edges. A router or laminate trimmer with a carbide-tipped flush trim bit works well. But I like to use a beveled bit to get a little "softer" edge. As you do this, you'll need to be sure to keep the bearing of the bit clean. Glue can build up while routing and freeze up the bearing, causing it to spin along with the bit. This can scratch the laminate, like you see in the photo at right. Another way to clean up the edges is to use a fine-cut flat file. You can find these files at most home centers or laminate retailers. Just be sure to file into the laminate as shown in the photo below. Don't pull the file along the edge or you may chip the laminate. That's it. It's just that easy to add a smooth, durable surface to any jig or fixture. Once you try it you'U look for more ways to use it & A Bearing Scratches. To prevent scoring of the laminate, check the bearing of the router bit frequently for glue buildup. FLUSH TRIM BIT APPLY LAMINATE TO EDGES FIRST 15* BEVEL save some money and apply "backer laminate", as you see in the photo at right. Edges. I only laminate the top and bottom of most projects. But depending on the look you want, you can also laminate the edges. To do this, you 11 want to start with the edges (Figure 2). This way, the laminate on the top will overlap the edges after trimming, leaving a less noticeable joint line (Figure 3). Plus, items dragged across the surface are less likely to catch on the edge. A Backer Laminate. Use less expensive backer laminate on the back side to help prevent warping. 11 |
