Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-4, страница 8

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make sense. We strongly recommend that you obtain a copy of the regulations. and adhere closely to the published standards.

Editor's Note: John Olson, who writes our Restoring Antiques column, was kind enough to help us with the next fwo fetters.

In a Restoring Antiques column in your January/February' 1983 issue (page 18), John Olson mentions that, "Old-fashioned varnish is based on boiled linseed oil and Japan drier plus other additives used by the manufacturers."

I'd like to learn the formula in order to make the finish. 1 have several antique pieces to refinish and I'd like to restore them using a finish that is as close as possible to the original.

Robert E. Kirkland, Memphis, Tenn.

/ wouldn 't recommend that anyone attack the problem of making an old-fashioned linseed oil varnish finish from scratch. There are all sorts of unforeseen problems connected to this task and today it is almost impossible to buy the ingredients that were used a hundred or more years ago.

Also involved is the matter of nomenclature and vocabulary. It would take weeks to trace down the obscure names used in some of these old formulas. However, I do know of two books that offer formulas and other information on the subject. They are: How To Do Your Own Wood Finishing by Jackson Hand, published by Harper and Row, and Fortunes in Formulas For Home, Farm, and Workshop, edited by Hiscock, Sloane, and Eisenson, published by Books. Inc. Fortunes in Form ulas is no longer in print, but you might be able to locate a copy at a local book store.

I would recommend that you strip and repair your antique pieces, then stain them if you so desire. Use a good spirit stain followed by three or four coats of Moore's One Hour Clear Finish. Three coats of high gloss J'ollowed by one or tn-o coats of low luster will give a deep finish that has the appearance of an old-fashioned hand-rubbed varnish finish. Allow to dry at least 24 hours, then rub down with 0000 steel wool and a good hard wax containing a large percentage of carnauba. I ve often used this finish and have had a

number of people remark that the finish looks antique.

1 have a small woodworking shop in my basement where 1 make children's furniture and toys. However, one of my projects has a finishing problem that I hope you can help me with.

A baby cradle I made for our grandchild looked great at first, but when a humidifier was placed next to it a few weeks later, the finish began to dull and lose its shine. The cradle was made of hardwood and finished with a Danish walnut gelled stain followed by a urethane gloss finish.

What did I do wrong and how can I correct this without going to all the work of stripping everything and starting from scratch? I like my finish to shine almost bright enough to hurt my eyes, so I'm not satisfied with a dull finish.

Also, can you suggest any good books on finishing?

Lowell Adkins, Lockridge, Iowa

All Jinishes are porous to some degree, so moisture condensing on the surj'ace chemically alters the outermost layers of the finish. If the cradle continues standing next to the humidifier, it will probably develop a white haze.

The cure is to very gently rub down the finish to remove the outermost layer that has been chemically altered. Steel wool (0000 or 00000) and wax, rottenstone and oil, or cigarette ash and water can all make good rubbing compounds — just be sure that you don't rub completely through the Jin-is h. I prefer trying automobile polishing compound. If that doesn t do the job, try automobile rubbing compound followed by the polishing compound. Clean off the compound frequently and rub just enough to remove the haze — not one bit more.

As j'or books on finishing, here are some good ones:

The Furniture Doctor by George Grotz. Doubleday and Co.

Furniture Finishing, Decoration, and Patching by Pattou and Vaughn, Drake Publishers

How To Do Your Own Wood Finishing, by Jackson Hand. Harper and

Row \\uj