Woodworker's Journal 1985-9-3, страница 6
Letters The shop tip in the March/April 1985 issue suggesting that two set screws are better to hold a pulley to a shaft certainly has its merits. However, experience has demonstrated that, depending upon its type, the leading end of the second set screw may damage the socket of the first, preventing its removal at a later time. Grinding the leading end of the second set screw flat prior to inserting it will prevent such damage. Another way to prevent damage to the first set screw is to place a '/s in. length of the proper diameter brass, aluminum or steel rod between the two set screws. Paul O. Landers, Palmyra, N.Y. We have found that short (V* in. long) bristle paint pads work well for staining projects. The bristles get down into any little voids and let you make a single pass to get complete coverage. The larger (4 in. by 6 in.) pads let you covcr a lot of wood with one swipe. We pour the stain in an old pie tin and dab the paint pad as needed. David L. Wiseley, Waters, Mich. A band saw fence can't be set at an angle for tapered cuts as suggested in the shop tip on page 58 of the January/ February 1985 issue. You need a tapering jig in order to make tapered cuts. Glenn Stauffer, Young, Ariz, Last issue, in your "Letters," Mr. Marthens of Whittier, Calif, was rightfully concerned about gasoline. But let me remind you, gasoline is not the only culprit. Many cleaning solvents, lacquer thinner, alcohol, etc., are also highly flammable as you state at the end of your article on "Restoring Antiques*-' (p. 16). It is important to understand what you are doing with gasoline and other flammables. Percy F. Hanson, Walhalla, N. Dak. 1 found the article "Sharpening Plane Blades & Chisels" in the March/April 1985 issue both interesting and instructive, but was dis appointed that one very important step was not mentioned at all. Since the article sets out four steps to be taken, I will call this the "zero" step as it should be done before any other attempts are made. The zero step is to check, and correct if necessary, the back of the plane blade or chisel for flatness. Unfortunately, more often than not, the back of a new tool is not truly flat, and old ones may never have been checked. Looking at the edge of a blade from the end, it's easy to see that it will he impossible to get a true edge since the thickness is not the same across the edge. Fortunately, it's easy to check the flatness and correct it if necessary. To check for flatness one needs a small steel straightedge. This is laid across the back of the blade or chisel and the whole held up to a bright light. If any light shines through the junction, the blade is not truly flat. There are several ways to flatten the back. If one has a stone that is known or tests to be flat this can be used with normal lubrication. I find a better way is to use a perfectly flat cast iron surface. On this is dropped a pinch of silicon carbide grains (about no, 50 grit) and a few drops of water. The proce- PLANERS—PLANERS—PLANERS BRIDGEWOOD™ - A NAME YOU CAN TRUST MODEL SHG-C10 7Vi HP 24" x 8" $5995.00 MODEL R-500 5 HP 20" x 9" $4395. MADE IN EUROPE ALL PRICES QUOTED F O B YORK. PA PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE WILKE MACHINERY CO. 717-846-2800 120 Derry Ct. • RD #5 • York, PA 17402 717-846-2800 SEND II 00 FOR OUR MACHINERY CATALOG MODEL 2400 - 5 HP MODEL SHG 508 - 5 HP 24" * 6" $3995 00 20" x 8" S3995 00 MODEL SPS18A 5 HP 18" x 7" (6 x 6 M) $2895 MODEL RE-40 3 HP 16" X 7" S2995.00 MADE IN EUROPE MODEL SHG 1300 3 HP 13" x 6" STD $1595. 13" x S" DELUXE $1995. MODEL SHG 20" x 6" 5 HP $2495.00 |
