Woodworker's Journal 1993-17-2, страница 61

hut stainless-steel screws won't cost much more and will last forever. We painted our chairs and seltec with an opaque exterior stain (Cabot's), hut you could also just leave the wood plain and allow it to weather.

Buzz Some Wood

The chairs and settee share most of the same parts, including the legs (A), seat supports (B), seat stretcher (E), seat slats (F), back slats (G), arm rests (H), and brackets (I). The primary differences are that on the settee the back and front stretchers (C. D) are longer, and there are a few additional parts—specifically the table supports (J) and the table slats (K). In case you don't want to make both the chairs and settee, we've provided separate Bills of Materials.

Once you've ripped sufficient stock to the three required widths, cut the various parts to length. For the shaped parts, refer to the appropriate grid patterns, transfer the patterns to the wood, and cut out with a jigsaw or band saw. Then sand to remove any saw marks.

Get That Drill & Screwdriver

With your parts all cut. assembly is a simple matter. Chuck up your drill and screwdriver with a combination drill/ countersink bit and driver bit. respectively. and get to work (don't drive the screws without first drilling pilot holes and countersinking, or you'll end up splitting the wood).

Whether you are working on the chair or the settee, the assembly sequence of both is identical for most of the way. Start by screwing the scat stretcher to the two seat supports. Screw the back slats to the scat stretcher, spacing the slats in. apart as shown, then mount the seat slats, spacing them ⁷/i* in. apart.

Next, mount the legs to the seat supports. This may seem easy to do, but it can be difficult to get all four legs indexed correctly. Our Fig. 1 illustration shows a trick that you can use with this and similar assemblies where you are trying to get all the legs on the same plane. Just cut a piece of in. thick plywood to a length that's equal to the desired spacing between the legs (12 in. on the chair), and to a width that's equal to the lront-to-back dimensions of the legs (ll¹/-* in. on the chair). With the plywood on a flat surface, locale the legs at the four corners and use bar or pipe

March/April 1993

Bill of Materials

(all dimensions actual)

Bill of Materials

(all dimensions actual)

pattern 2

* Length of back siats is before arc is cut.

pattern 2

* Length of back siats is before arc is cut.

clamps across the front and back pairs of legs to hold them in position.

You can now locate the seat/back subassembly as shown in the side view, and screw it in place through the four legs. We show the seat/back subassem bly at a 15 degree angle to the floor, but don't get out your angle finders and bevel squares for this job. The important points here are to first scribe an index line (on the inside of the back legs) 3⁷/x in. from the bottom, and then position the seat/back subassembly so the bottom corner of the seat support is flush with the index fine, the back edge of the seat stretcher is flush with the back edge of the back legs, and the back plane of the back slats is aligned with the top back corner of the back legs. This is a lot to say in one sentence, but a glance at our Fig. I illustration should clarify just what points we are referring to.

If you are making the individual

Bill of Materials

(all dimensions actual)

No.

Part Description Size Req d

Settee (No. req'd is for one settee)

Settee (No. req'd is for one settee)

Length of back slats is before arc is cuL

Length of back slats is before arc is cuL

chairs, all that remains is to mount the arms, the brackets and the front and back stretchers, and scribe and cut the 8 in. radius on the back slaLs. Mount the arms and brackets, then add the front and back stretchers, and last of all. screw through the back slats into the back stretcher. Finally, scribe the 8 in. radius, cut with a jigsaw and sand smooth.

For the settee, first make both chairs (each a separate assembly). Screw the arm rests, brackets and table supports in place on each of the chairs, then join the two chairs by mounting the front and back stretchers (obviously, the chairs should be on a flat surface when you join them). Screw through the back slats into the back stretcher, scribe the 8 in. radius on the back \lals. cut and sand smooth, lasllv add the table slats, spacing them evenly apart. Note that the four corners of (he table surface are gently radiused.

Feel Creative?

\<»w thai the kids are kicking back in the great little chairs and settee that you've just completed, you may be about ready lo settle down yourself. If so. you're probably already asking yourself. "Can 1 use this same basic design and just scale the plans up to a full-size, adult version?" The answer is yes. You'll need lo increase stock lengths and widths accordingly, and make a few other changes Here are a few dimensions lo get you started.

The leg lengih on the adult version should be 20 in., which will yield a 20^ in. tola I arm rest height. The distance between the legs—and the length of the seal sl.iis should be about 20 in., the front-to back dimension of the legs should be about 19 in., and the back slal lengih should be at least 24 in. And. you'll want to switch lo wider stock— such as 4 in. to replace those parts thai are 2V* in.—for just about all the parts.

But there are other more subile changes that you'll need lo work out as you go. For example, you can't sw itch to 4 in. wide boards for ihe hack, and space them in. apart, since the total adds up to less than the 20 in. total width required. Instead, use five boards about 3⁵/s in. wide each, and space them evenly to fill the 20 in. width. With some thought, and another trip to the lumberyard. you shouldn't have much trouble coming up with adult-sized versions of our kid-sized Adirondack set.

Please circle No. 8 on the Reader Sen il e Card 61