Woodworker's Journal 2004-28-4, страница 44

Woodworker

SHOP TEST

cover closed. Just a few nailers require you to remove (or at least loosen) two or more Allen-head screws. It's just soo inconvenient.

There's one last hazard that comes to mind, and you may find it to be the hardest to avoid.

It's the tool's seductiveness. It's so fast and easy that you'll shirt blowing brads into all your projects, whether fasteners are right for the application or not.

Hill Hylton is a regular Journal contributor and the author of several woodworking books.

Details Determine the Difference

Makita has a feature that controls the safety reset with the trigger of the nailer. Also note the window to see if brads are loaded or not

Each time you fire a brad, a puff of air is exhausted from the nailer. On the Grizzly (and others), you can rotate the top-mounted exhaust to direct the air away from your face.

and, when fired into a workpiece, they'll follow the path of least resistance. Should one encounter gnarly grain, a knot, or a nail, it probably will veer off course. It may burst through the surface, just where you don't want it. A friend of mine nailed a couple of fingers together, and to the work, when this happened.

The psychological part is the dismay that follows the emergence of a brad through a show surface. Believe me, you won't be able to pull that brad. Don't make the damage worse. Nip off the brad with diagonal cutters, sink the end. and patch the hole.

To avoid this trouble, always pay close attention to the alignment of the nailer before you squeeze the trigger. Aim — and I mean just that — .o keep the brad ir. the meat of the work. And pay attention to your hand placement.

Defiling with jams: Every once in ?. while, regardless of how careful yoL are, you'll get a jam. Shouldn't be a big deal to clear, but with a few nailers it is.

To clear a jam, you r.iust open the drive cover, remove the kinked brad, and reclose the cover. Most of the nailers I used have a latch system lo sec.ire the cover. Get a jam? Pop the latch, clear the brad, and snap the

Sometimes a jam-up occurs. Some naflers, like the Makita (above), use an Allen-wrench to open the drive cover. Others simply pop a latch to open :he cover and clear the jam.

Nailing It: The Right Gun for the Right Application

Brand

Model

Price

Capacity

Depth Control

Nose Pad

Safety

Drive Guide Cover

View Port

Exhaust

Comments

Bostitch

BT200

S95

5/8" - 2"

res: 1,3

Yes

Front

Allen screw

Yes

Rear

Oil-less, bounce-fire

Campbell-Hausfeld

NB004099 SB3232

$140 $100

5/8" - 2" 1/2" - Vk"

(6rafl/stap;e)

No No

Mo No

Front Yes

Latch

Allen Screw

Yes No

Top Top

Bare bones

Bare bones, no air fitting

Craftsman Craftsman

351.181172 351.181174

$100 $110

5/8" - 2V,M 1/2" - 1YiM

(Brad/staple)

Yes: 2 Yes: 2

Yes Yes

Front Behind

Allen screw Latcli

Yes Tiny

Rear Rear

Oil-less, bounce/single fire Oil-less, bounce/single tire

OeWalt

D51238

$120

5/8" - 2"

Yes: 2.4

Yes

Behind

Latch

Yes

Top

No air hose fitting supplied

Grimly

G6047

$100

5/8" - 2"

No

No

Behind

Latch

Yes

Top

Bounce fires

Hitachi

NT50AE

$85

5/8" - 2"

No

No

Behind

Latcli

Yes

Top

Bounce tires

Makita

AF503

$160

5/8" - 2"

NO

Yes

Behind

Allen Screw

Yes

Top

Trigger controlled return

Paslode

T200-F18

$100

5/8'- 2"

Yes: 2

Yes

Behind

Latch

Yes

Top

Bounce-fire trigger optional

Porter-Cable

BN125A

$80

5/8"-rv

Yes: 2

Yes

Behind

Latch

Yes

Top

Bounce-fire trigger optional

Senco

FinishPro18

$120

5/8'- 2"

Yes: 1,3

Yes

Front

Allen Screw

Yes

Rear

No bounce-tire, belt hook

70

August 2004 Woodworkers Journal