Woodworker's Journal 2004-28-4, страница 53

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86

Polishes and Compounds

These art? finish products designed for very dense, hard exotic materials like cocobolo and ebony, which do not need sealing, and arc popular finishes with pen turners. One common brand is the HUT products. There are various fot mutations of hard waxes and polishing agents, which can be applied directly to the wood and then buffed off under power. 'Hie result is a hard glossy finish that wears well.

Soaling Your Work

'Ihe process of turning produces both end grain and flat grain on the final surface. And as they will absorb finishes at remarkably different rates, it's a good idea to use a sealer coat, especially 011 exposed open end grain. This is particularly true if you are trying to achieve a uniform stain color, or build up id a glossy surface. One of the best sealers is shellac, thinned with denatured alcohol and mixed with a small amount of linseed oil. Furniture finishers will recognize this formula as "French polish." and indeed it can be used as a finish all by itself if you

build successive coats.

You can also use a nitrocellulose (lacquer type) sanding sealer for this purpose. Mix it thoroughly, thin it well, (50%) and let it penetrate, i am a bit leery ot applying this stuff under power, as it docs like to grab rags! Protect your li ngs from the volatiles in this material; use a mask rated for organic vapor. Sand it well before progressing to the next step.

Padding Lacquer

This is a hybrid of French polish/shellac made by several suppliers. The one I use most often is sold by Mylands, a British outfit. It works like shellac, and probably contains some, but the formula finishes harder than shellac and has a better build rale. Apply it with a wet rag pad under power, and then polish it with a dry rag under power. It is great for small spindles and vessels made from exotic woods. £

Steve lilenk is the newest contributing editor to Woodworker's Journal.