Woodworker's Journal 2007-Winter, страница 63
Attach the molding with biscuits, glue and clamps and, after the glue has dried, sand the top edges absolutely flat. Dry-fit the top to the cabinet (but don't attach it yet): the top assembly should overhang the cabinet by 1/8" all around.
The two outfeed supports (wings) add about three feet of stock support on either side of the saw. As each folds out, a hidden adjustable leg drops down to support it. Movable rollers, clamped to the wings, support stock in a range of lengths and widths.
Each support is made up of a panel of MDF (pieces 17), trimmed with a hardwood molding (piece 18). Rip and joint the molding to size, then miter it to length and attach it to the panel with glue, biscuits and clamps. When everything is dry, sand each wing and mill a very slight chamfer on the bottom edge with a bearing-guided chamfering bit.
Building the Drawer Box
It's a lot easier to build and install the drawer before you attach the cabinet top permanently. The first step is to face-glue a piece of 1/2" plywood to some of your 3/4"
MDF, to create a couple of spacers (pieces 19). These build out the edges of the drawer cavity so it's flush with the inside edge of the face frame. Secure the spacers with glue, clamps and predrilled, countersunk screws to hold them in place while the glue dries.
We used poplar for the drawer sides, front and back (pieces 20 and 21). Use a 3/4" dado blade in the table saw to create the fingers, then glue and clamp the box together.
It never hurts to overbuild your shop fixtures. Drive a 2" screw through each of the drawer box fingers into countersunk, predrilled holes (see Figure 3).
The bottom of the drawer (piece 22) is a piece of 1/2" Baltic birch plywood, attached to the sides with 2" countersunk screws and no glue, so it can be replaced when necessary.
Install the drawer box with a pair of heavy-duty 24" full-extension drawer slides (pieces 23). Align the box's front face flush with the face frame's back edge to allow for the drawer face, and screw the slides to the spacers.
Figure 1: Plow grooves in the stiles and rails in several passes with an up-spiral bit in a table-mounted router (shown), or use a 1/4" dado head in the table saw.
Figure 2: Adjust the height of your spiral bit to form matching tongues on the ends of the rails. Again, make numerous passes to prevent stressing the workpiece or the tool.
Making the Drawer Face
The drawer face has two stiles, two rails and a panel (pieces 24 through 26). Plow a through groove in the inside face of each stile, the bottom edge of the top rail and the top edge of the bottom rail, (see Drawing, page 64). Mill matching tongues on the ends of the rails, cut the panel to size and, when everything fits, glue and clamp the drawer face together. Attach it to the drawer box with screws driven from inside the box. Complete it with walnut-stained hardwood knobs (pieces 27).
Each door calls for two stiles, two rails and a panel (pieces 28 through 30). Plow a through groove in the inside face of each stile, the bottom edge of the top rail and the top edge of the bottom rail. Then mill matching tongues on the ends of the rails, cut the panel to size and assemble the doors without glue. Check their fit in the openings.
When everything fits perfectly, glue and clamp each door together. After sanding, attach the doors to the cabinet with brass piano hinges (pieces 31).