Woodworker's Journal 2008-32-2, страница 91

Woodworker

DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME ... or anywhere else. Michael Dresdner's point that most finishes are nontoxic after they cure does not mean that they should ever be included in the nutrition pyramid.

|'(jjj\ I made a couple of Sfejr small cabinets from red oak lumber that I inlaid with cocobolo strips. I decided to use polyurethane to finish the project because I desired its durability. Curiously, the polyurethane cured fine where it was applied to the the oak but remained sticky and never seemed to dry over the cocobolo strips. What kind of finish can I use that will work well for both woods, while also maintaining a protective finish?

Eduardo Hubard Tallahassee, Florida

Michael Responds:

You have several options, but let's start by explaining why the one you used failed. Cocobolo is a dalbergia, a member of the rosewood family. Those woods contain an antioxidant that prevents the cure of finishes that depend on oxidation to cure. That includes everything from pure linseed oil through Danish oil and on up to oil-based polyurethane.

What you can use is any finish that cures by solvent evaporation, including shellac, lacquer and most

waterbased coatings. Those will all cure quite nicely on both the oak and cocobolo. Another interesting option is to prime the wood with one coat of clear primer. I'd suggest Zinsser SealCoat™, which is made of dewaxed shellac. Once that coat dries, and it will, even on cocobolo, you can go over it with whatever finish you choose, including the oil-based polyurethane that did not dry when applied directly onto the cocobolo. ^

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WINNER! For simply sending in his question on safe, durable finishes, Jason Deyette of Rensselaer, New York wins UGL's ZAR Wood Finishing Kit. Each issue we toss new questions into a hat and draw a winner.

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Woodworker's Journal April 2008 93

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