Woodworker's Journal 2009-33-2, страница 18
Questions and Answers One slick method of installing unbacked veneer involves applying glue to both the veneer and the substrate, allowing the glue to dry and then ironing them together. It works best for smaller sized pieces. will do, depending on the circumstances, but if you are driving screws with a drill/driver, use one of the drive styles suited to power-driving. My favorite is the Robertson, or square drive. Despite being so ubiquitous and simple in concept, screws are in fact elegantly complex and sophisticated fasteners. With a wide variety of head shapes, thread and point styles, differing metal fabrication and coatings, there are entire books written about screws and with good reason — there is a lot to know about them. The second part of your question is easier to answer. How many screws are there to the pound? It just depends. (Your local hardware store employee can give you the specifics.) — Rob Johnstone Ql have been searching the web to find out how to glue veneer without a paper backing. All I can find are articles on gluing backed veneer and to stay away from unbacked veneer. If unbacked veneer is so bad, why does everybody sell it? Also, which glue do you use to attach it? Tom Vest Maryland Heights, Missouri A I can only speculate why some woodworkers would say unbacked veneer is bad, but I assume they think so because adhering sliced wood veneers (unbacked) is far more complex. To contradict the naysayers, I actually prefer sliced veneers. Backed veneers are sold in large sheets, and sliced veneers are sold as pieces that need to be joined by the user to make larger sheets. Sliced veneers offer many advantages, in my opinion. They can be joined and "matched" to create a variety of visual effects: a cabinet with veneered, book-matched doors is a good example. Sliced veneers are thicker and can be sanded considerably more than Stumpers No longer a mystery, this tool is a piece of history — from the kitchen. When Arthur Hinners wrote us about his mystery tool, he told us there was faded writing: "With cleaning and application of chalk, I believe the words are "Vitantonio Mfg. Co, Cleveland, 0. Pat.'d." Reader Martin O' Connor of DeKalb, Illinois, saw the tool in our December 2008 issue, and his thoughts immediately went to the kitchen. "I have no idea how the tool is operated, but I'm fairly certain that it is a kitchen pasta machine, probably made by either Guinta Bros, or Vitantonio Manufacturing Co.," said Martin. Combined with Ar thur's inscription, that makes it extremely likely this is one of the first hand-cranked home pasta machines, invented by Antonio Vitantonio in 1906. Arthur described how the machine works: "If the handle is turned counterclockwise, the cutters cut." As with all tools, somebody's going to come up with a way to use it for additional purposes — as we heard from Le Volberding of Dayton, Nevada, who said, "I saw something like this when I was a kid long, long ago, and I was told it was for cutting and rolling tobacco for cigars." —Joanna Werch Takes S" WINNER! Bob Thome of Sneedville, Tennessee, wins a Porter-Cable I3/ Max HP Router (Model 690LR). We toss all the Stumpets letters into a hat to select a winner. paperbacked veneers, and they are more durable over the long term. As for which glue to use — it depends upon the application. I use standard yellow wood glue for veneering jobs under five square feet, slow-setting yellow glue for veneering jobs in the five to 20 square foot range and plastic resin glue when doing larger veneering projects that are more than 20 square feet. I suggest you read Paul Villiard's A Manual of Veneering to learn more. — Bruce Kieffer _J_ What's This? Dale Fox of Albuquerque, New Mexico, found this tool under his dad's workbench. Know what it is? Send your answer to: Stumpers, c/o Woodworker's Journal, P.O. Box 261, Medina, Minnesota 55340. Or send an email: stumpers @woodwo rkersjournal.com 18 April 2009 Woodworker's Journal |
