Woodworker's Journal 2009-33-3, страница 34

Simple Birch Pull

end. In other words, set up the drill press stop on the right, drill all of the left holes, then move the stop leftward and drill all of the right holes. This makes the hole spread consistent from pull to pull, regardless of each pull's actual length.

I mount these pulls with #6 x VA" llalhead screws. A 7/64"-diameter pilot hole is a good size for that screw. Drill test holes and mount the first pull to make sure the screws don't strip out or split the pull. Adjust the hole size if necessary.

Ease the groove-end edges using a drill press-mounted flap sander run at the slowest speed. The author finds that worn sandpaper affords better control of the workpiece here.

The last step is to ease the sharp edges of the pull ends. I find a drill press-mounted flap sander is the fastest way to do this. For this cherry pull, I only slightly round over the edges of the finger-groove ends so they feel nice, but I leave the hard-line topside curved edges. Apply your favorite finish, and these pulls are ready lo install. m

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Bruce Kieffer is a professional woodworker and a frequent contributor to Woodworker's Journal.

Birch Pull (Top View) Dimensions 5/8" x 7/8" x 4"

M aking this pull is about as easy as making the walnut pull. There's no routing involved, but ripping the beveled gripping edges is a bit harder, and sanding those ripped edges is more work. Start by culling your stock 7/8" thick and at least 24" long. Cut the piece wide enough so you'll have enough stock lo make the quantity of pulls you need, plus a few extra for testing your saw setups.

Rip the beveled pull edges (middle right photo). You'll need lo find the best combination of saw blade and feed rate so the cut edges are relatively smooth and burn free. Otherwise, you'll have a lot of work lo do sanding the sawn edges smooth. A sharp ripping blade or combination blade both would be good choices. Test your saw setup lo determine what works best.

I finish-sand the sawn beveled edges on my edge sander. Sanding blocks work in lieu of that machine; it's just more work that way. Cut the pulls to length (bottom right photo), then sand the beveled end shapes. The setup for sanding the beveled ends works best if you till you sander's table down 20°, position the pull face-down on the lable and hold the pull's side against a

(Front View)

% li /«" Dia. |

(End View)

miter gauge. Sand until the bottom end of the pull just touches (he sanding belt. The rest of the work is the same as with the other two pulls.

Bevel-rip the 6° birch pull edges. Cut the outside edge with a wide cut first, then set the saw fence to 5/8" and rip the pull's other angled edge. Use your saw's guard assembly.

The author clamped a flexible wooden batten to a stack of scrap pieces to form a spring-loaded hold-down for cutting these pulls to length. It provides a safe way to securely hold the pull between the blade and a stop block. Handholding isn't an option here!

Woodworker's Journal June 2009

33