Woodworker's Journal 2009-33-3, страница 39

Cut two elongated slots through the fence base, one near each end. These slots will accept through bolts to mount the fence to the table and make it adjustable, relative to the router bit.

Once you've cut #20 biscuit slots for the four support braces, attach the fence base to the fence back with more biscuits and glue. Clamp up the parts, making sure the base and back meet at 90°. Install the braces.

Drill a counterbored hole through each fence facing, centered on the horizontal slots in the fence back. Attach the facings to the fence with carriage bolts, washers and wingnuts.

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actually attaching to it. (Note: You may need to modify how the lift plate makes contact with your router if your motor cap is designed differently or if (he tool's internal cooling fan must vent tlirough it.)

Drill a shallow 5/8"-diameter hole in the lift plate to lit over ihe end of Ihe threaded rod. Set the lift plate on top of the rouler. and boll the router lift to Ihe table. Crank the rod until it seats in the lift plale hole.

Making the Fence

My split-fence is easy to build. Cut the fence base and back (pieces 11 and 12) to size, and follow (he Drawings to lay out pairs of attachment boll slots in both of these parts. Use your drill and jigsaw or a rouler and a 3/8"-diameter straight bil to form these slots. Mark and cut the fence's large rouler bil openings now, too.

Four triangular braces (pieces 13) stiffen ihe fence back and square it to the base. Make these braces now.

You're ready to assemble the fence. Pull out your biscuit joiner and cut #20 slots in Ihe base, back and braces. Glue and clamp the back to the base, making sure they're square. Then, glue on the braces.

Next come the fence facings (pieces 14). I suggest (hat you cut them from one long strip of plywood to ensure (hat their thicknesses will match perfectly. Miter-cut the ends that will meet in the middle to 45°. Carefully lay out and drill a 3/8"-diameter through-bolt hole and counter-bore in each fence facing. Mount Ihe facings on Ihe fence back with carriage bolts, washers and wingnuts (pieces 17). Drill two carriage bolt holes through the table to fasten the fence through its slots.

Last comes the dust port plate (piece 15). Cut it to size, and bevel-miter Ihe ends. Cut a hole through il thai fits your shop vac hose nozzle. Fasten the plale to the fence back between Ihe middle braces with a hinge (piece 16).

Completing the Final Details

You slill need to cut a larger opening in ihe tabletop for router bits to pass through. Use a hole saw equipped with a 1/4" center mandrel to enlarge Ihe bit pilot hole you created earlier. Depending on your bil collection, a single hole may work with every bit you own. A l¹ :"-diameler hole will accommodate many bil styles. Or, you can make insert rings as shown in ihe detail drawing on page 36. Disassemble the table and cut a 3/4"-wide slot along Ihe front edge to fit your table saw's miler gauge bar. Mill il with a straight bil in your rouler or using a dado blade, (live all the project parts a thorough sanding, and apply a few coats of durable finish. When the finish dries. I recommend adding a safely power switch so you can turn the router on and off easily or quickly in an emergency. Now, bolt (he parts together, clamp (he (able to your bench, and you're all set for routing.

Guido Henn is a woodworker who lives in Germany.

June 2009 Woodworker's Jou ma I