Woodworker's Journal 2009-33-3, страница 53

Constructing the Slatted Tops

Drill a 1/2"-diameter counterbore, 1/2" deep at each screw location so you can cover the screw heads with dowels or wood plugs.

The tabletop framework consists of four matching rails and two edging strips. The tabletop assemblies and the benchtop assemblies are constructed in exactly the same fashion.

Next, follow the dimensions in the Slat Layout Drawing, page 51, to cut angled slats that lit inside your table and bench frames. Miter-cut their ends to 45°. With the frames on a Hat surface, work from a middle slat out, marking and cutting one slat at a time and spacing them 1/2" apart.

Next, cut the long and short cleats (pieces 9 and 10) to size. They'll support the slats from underneath. Drive l'V' galvanized deck screws through the cleats — one screw per slat — to fix the cleats to the slats, then screw the cleats to the bench and table frames from the inside. Note: You could substitute outdoor tiles for the slats to take this design in a different direction (see photos, next page), but you will need to modify the frame sizes to suit your tiles and add additional cross supports to stiffen thinner tiles.

Fastening Tops to Subassemblies

Attaching the table and bench tops to Ihe leg frameworks is easy. Set the tops in place on the frames, adjusting for an even overhang. Make sure Ihe leg rails and frame

Use 3" galvanized screws to secure the table and benchtop frame joints. Clamp the assembly as you glue and screw it together.

Before final assembly, use a power sander to smooth the slats thoroughly and break all the sharp edges for a more finished look.

When assembling the table and bench tops, cut and position the angled slats first. Then screw the cleats to the slats from below.

Fasten the cleats to the inside faces of the table and bench frames with 2" wood screws to complete the slat installation.

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June 2009 Woodworker's Jou ma I