Woodworker's Journal 2009-33-3, страница 59

Woodworker

Todays Shop

A combination air filter/moisture trap and pressure regulator fitted to a compressor (photo, above) supplies an air tool with clean, dry air at the correct operating pressure. You can vary the speed of most air tools either by pressing their paddle levers less fully or by adjusting an air regulation knob (upper right photo). Lubricating air tools daily (bottom right photo) keeps them running smoothly.

PRO TIP:

By connecting air hoses to a special

manifold fitting, you can tether several air tools to a single compressor line so they're always ready for action.

pressure to match the tool's recommended PSI. A flexible hose connects the compressor to the tool. When running air tools with higher standard cubic feet per minute (SCFM) demands, it's best to use a 3/8" I.L). air hose that's 25 to 50 feel long. You can gel by using 1/4" I.D. air lines with tools that have lower SCFM requirements. If an air tool doesn't come up to speed quickly or lacks power, switch to a larger diameter and/or a shorter hose.

Most air tools have lever-like paddles that control the airflow and switch the tool on and off. You can reduce the speed/power of the tool by putting less pressure on the paddle. Many tools also feature an air regulation knob, which lets you set the maximum amount of airflow (and thus the speed/power) with the tool's paddle wide open.

Air tools need to be lubricated regularly to keep them operating smoothly: Simply apply a few drops of air tool oil (in a pinch, you can use 10-weight SAF motor oil) to the tool's air inlet every day before use. For heavily used tools (or if you're prone to forget oiling), fit an automatic oiler on the tool's air inlet. When starting up a freshly-oiled tool, cover the air exhaust with a rag. as oil is apt to be sprayed everywhere. Because lubricating oil can contaminate air hoses and. subsequently, raw wood surfaces and spray-gun-applied finishes, it's a good idea to designate one hose just for air tools.

Air Tools for Woodworking ...

Orbital and In-line Sanders

The original air-powered sander, orbital "jitterbug" sanders have been around for decades, used in auto body shops for line sanding body filler, primer and painted finishes. Their rectangular rubber pads take a

standard 1/3-sheel of sandpaper, and their low profile lets them gel into lighter areas than most electric orbitals can reach.

Also born in aulo body shops, in-line (a.k.a. "long board") sanders use long strips of sandpaper and work with a back-and-forlh sanding action. In-lines are great to use with fine-grit papers for final smoothing of large, flat cabinet sides, panels and tabletops, as well as for fine sanding between finish coals.

Random-orbit and Dual-action Sanders

Compact and powerful, pneumatic random-orbit (RO) sanders come with eilher 5"- or 6"-diameter pads that take PSA (pressure-sensitive adhesive) sandpaper discs. You can also fit them with a conversion pad that accepts hook-and-loop discs. An RO's orbit diameter

Today's Shop continues on page 60...

An air-powered "jitterbug" orbital sander (right) is up to most wood or finish-sanding chores. The long, narrow pad of an in-line sander (left) rapidly moves back and forth, making it perfect for final sanding without leaving cross-grain scratches.

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June 2009 Woodworker's Jou ma I