Woodworker's Journal 2009-33-6, страница 26

MATERIAL LIST

5 Biscuits (4) #20

"Take care to match the dentil strip pattern at the corners when you're cutting them to length.

5 Biscuits (4) #20

"Take care to match the dentil strip pattern at the corners when you're cutting them to length.

Dentil Molding

(Edge View)

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Assembling the Frame

Mitering the rails and stiles is fussy, delicate work if you want them to close tightly. Honestly, these eight cuts will make or break your project. It's critical to adjust your miter gauge for dead-on 45° angles, so spend some time tuning it up and making test cuts. I fastened a long, stiff fence to my miter gauge and faced it with sandpaper to keep parts from creeping during cutting. A long fence will also enable you to use a stop block as an index for setting part lengths.

Although the photo at right shows me mitering both ends of a workpiece, this was actually the fourth and final rail I was cutting to fit. I would suggest you work on one corner of the frame at a time, mitering the parts and adjusting them for square before moving onto the next corner. I applied a piece of masking tape over the moldings before making each cut to keep tearout to a minimum. If a joint doesn't meet squarely, add a few paper shims between the workpiece and miter gauge on one end or the other before re-trimming. It can help you zero in on a partial degree that brings things nicely into square.

When three pieces of the frame are mitered, arrange them on a flat worksurface, and check the opposite rails or stiles for parallelism. The final piece will be the most tricky — it both brings the frame together and requires you to fit two joints at once. Make a test piece

The author reinforced the mite the outside edges of the frame pull them tight with a band els

Frame Molding

(Section View)

You'll better your chances for perfect-fitting miter joints if you tune up your miter gauge and use a long, stiff, auxiliary fence. Add a sandpaper facing and use a stop block for even more precision.