Woodworker's Journal 2009-33-6, страница 30
Each of the 2"-wide drawer rails on the upper case is held in place with a 1"-deep dovetail. The author cut the tails by hand with a backsaw, then marked the tails onto the front edge of the case sides and cut the dovetail sockets with a chisel. Starting with the Big Box After gluing up and leveling the four panels that comprise the upper case shell, I cut through rabbets on the inside back edge of the top, bottom, and two sides. (Through rabbets were acceptable because the waist and cornice moldings would later conceal the ends of those rabbets.) I next cut and carefully fit the long rows of dovetails at the corners and glued up the case, pressing each dovetail home with a pipe clamp I moved back and forth across the joinery. After the dovetails were fully seated, I checked diagonals to verify that the case was square, and then I set it aside to cure. After planing the surplus length from the ends of the upper case's pins and tails, I prepped the drawer rails. First, I plowed grooves on the back side of each rail — grooves which would later accept a tongue on the ends of the drawer runners. I then cut dovetails on the ends of each rail. Finally, I marked and cut the dovetail sockets in the front edges of the case sides to receive each of the dovetails and glued the rails in place. The drawer runners went in next. I installed them by sliding the tongue on the end of each into its groove on the back side of the drawer rail, fastening the back end of the runner to the case side with a single heavy screw. In the case of the two top drawers, I assembled the drawer runner/kicker strip unit before attaching the whole thing in place with two screws driven up into the top of the upper case, through the kicker strips. Additionally, tenons fit into the backs of the two uppermost drawer rails. When all those members were installed, I went ahead and fit the back. The Case a drawer. In fact, those tails at the bottom of a wide drawer side might be twice as wide as those at the top. Applied consistently, this approach adds a unifying element, not only to the drawers in a single case piece but also to all drawers made by my hand. Solid wood case sides expand and contract in response to seasonal changes, so the drawer runners must be fastened in a way that permits movement. The front end of each runner's tongue fits a groove milled into the drawer rail. The back end of the runner is secured with a single fat woodscrew turned into the side of the case. The piece of 3/8"-thick scrap holds the runner back as you set the screw (middle photo). The drawer kicker assembly (photo at left). Adding Various Moldings Through the years, I've created moldings with a router, a table saw with molding heads, scratch stocks, bench planes, and so forth. But for the last five years, I've been making them primarily with molding planes because, first, I think antique molding planes offer modern makers the richest available variety of shapes. Second, these antique 32 December 2009 Woodworker's Journal |
