Woodworker's Journal 2009-33-6, страница 40

With the router plate clamped atop a wood scrap, rout the curved slot (photo, page 40) following the dimensions in the Drawings. Attach the plate to the crossmember (photo, above) with a pair of threaded hand screws.

Getting to Tilt

The two compasses (pieces 8) that support the table top and allow it to tilt are the most complicated part of the build. The compasses are necessary, because they allow the top to tilt without being hinged on the router plate — an arrangement that wouldn't allow the plate to adjust up and down for depth of cut. Both compasses are sawn from a single ll%"-wide, 20"-long blank of 1/2" plywood, laid out as shown in the Drawings. Use a good quality plywood, such as Baltic birch. Each compass has a pair of semicircular slots routed through it, located as shown in the Drawing. Screw the blank temporarily atop a scrap piece of 24" x 14" (or larger) plywood or particleboard. As the actual pivot point of the tilt-top is located beyond the corner of each compass, where the front of the router plate and top meet, you must screw a pair of scrap blocks to the plywood to provide a pivot point for layout and slot routing (photo, center left). The 1/2" x 4" x VA" scraps are positioned at opposite corners of the blank, as shown in the Drawing. Use a compass set to a 12" radius to mark the outer edge of each compass. Mark the stop lines for the slots, as shown in the Drawings.

In the top photo, a pair of threaded hand knobs attach the router plate to the two hanger bolts protruding from the crossmember. Each of the twin compasses that support the horizontal router table's tilt-top has a pair of curved slots. Mill these with a router and circle-cutting jig (bottom photo). A small scrap of plywood (middle photo) provides the pivot point for the circle-cutting jig.

42

December 2009 Woodworker's Journal