Woodworker's Journal 2011-35-Winter, страница 52

What's Up With Oils And Waxes

Are oils and waxes really finishes? Why choose one over the other? Our expert explains your choices.

favorites, is Briwax (rhymes with "dry wax") from England.

Waxes are derived from a variety of mineral, vegetable and animal sources. As a finish, waxes don't penetrate wood, but rather sit atop it. They will prevent it from oxidizing (turning gray) but don't particularly enhance the wood. In other words, once a coat of clear wax dries on the wood, it will look like freshly cut, but unfinished, wood.

hi its natural state, wax is a solid at room temperature. Liquid or paste wax typically contains some solvent, and the wax "cures" as the solvent evaporates. Virtually all waxes will dissolve in mineral spirits or naphtha, which is handy to know should you ever need to remove wax, either from wood or on top of a finish. Most waxes melt at very low temperatures, so they don't offer much in the way of heat resistance. However, they do shed water, which helps them resist food and drink spills. You can apply wax over any other finish and it will give the surface a soft sheen and smooth feel, but don't put other finishes over wax.

To apply liquid or paste wax, simply rub it on and wipe it off. I like to apply paste wax with Scotchbrite® pads or fine steel wool, then wipe with paper shop towels. If you wipe the wax off immediately, it will leave a dull sheen as it dries. For more shine, let it dry, then buff it with a soft cloth.

Many woodworkers turn to oils or waxes for their first attempt at finishing, and for good reason. They are easy to apply, give almost foolproof results, require no applicators beyond a rag and leave wood looking both rich and natural. Turners especially love them because they adapt perfectly to finishing wood still turning on the lathe.

If there is one Achilles' heel these popular finishes suffer from, it is their lack of durability. You would probably not choose a simple oil or wax finish for a bar top or kitchen table that will be assaulted with scratches, hot coffee pots or strong solvents, but they are perfect for bookcases, jewelry boxes, turnings, picture frames, blanket chests and a host of similar objects.

Oils (top in photo) and waxes are great finishes for novice and expert woodworkers alike. One important safety note: Oily rags can indeed spontaneously combust. They must be COMPLETELY dried before they can be thrown away.

While a wax finish can go on any type of wood, avoid putting oil (or Danish oil) on aromatic cedar or any of the dalbergia woods (rosewood, cocobolo, tulipwood). These woods contain an antioxidant that will prevent the oil from curing.

Wax

Sold in liquid, paste and solid stick forms, waxes are formulated in a host of colors. You'll find them in clear, amber, a range of wood tones and even white, which can be used to create limed or pickled effects. Some waxes are softer, some are harder, but even the hardest waxes are softer than lacquers and varnishes. The fact that they are soft means they offer very little protection against scratches and wear. Of the ready-to-use paste waxes, one of the hardest, and also one of my

52 What's Up With Oils And Waxes