Woodworker's Journal Chinese-Tea-Table, страница 7

69. Clamping with miter clamps.

70. Allow the glue to dry completely, as web-work is not inherently strong and insufficient curing will only make the assembly more fragile.

71. Lay the table assembly down on a cloth-covered level surface.

72. Mark the exact center of each length on the exposed bottom surface of the aprons.

73. Place parallel lines across the grain of the aprons 3/8" to either side of the center mark to demarcate the placement of the webwork ends.

74. See the Section Detail for the relationship between the apron, the trim rail, the top frame, and the webwork.

75. NOTE that parts E are joined to parts F with small countersunk and plugged wood screws.

76. Place a layer of glue within the marked area of the aprons.

77. Lay the webwork, best face down towards the top frame, on the glued areas.

78. Adjust position (if necessary) until all four ends of the webwork fall within their marked areas.

79. Scrape excess glue.

80. Clamp each end with a large cabinetmaker's clamp placed "under" the top and "over" the webwork end.

81. Use a sanding block to preserve the flatness of the surfaces.

82. Sand, if necessary, the appropriate edge near each joint to make the miter joint exactly on the corner.

83. Round the outside edges of the top frame slightly (1/16" radius) to remove sharp corners.

84. Do the same to the vertical edges of the legs and the bottom edge of the rail trim.

85. Use finish grade sandpaper to touch up the areas around all the joints and remove any glue traces on the surface.

86. Finish sand the trim rail and top frame, making sure that the top frame joints are perfectly smooth.

87. Apply three coats of clear penetrating oil finish, allowing coat each to soak in for about five minutes before wiping off the excess.

These plans were originally published in Volume 7, Issue 4 of The Woodworker's Journal (July/Aug. 1983, pages 38-40).