Woodworker's Journal Router-Bit-Box, страница 6

26. Run the frame through the table saw blade to make the first cut needed for cutting the frame around its perimeter, thus creating the case (parts A, B, C, and H) and the lid (parts D, E, F, and G).

27. Flip the box so that the other 11-1/2" long side is face down on the table saw.

28. Repeat the cut.

29. Place an 18" long surface on the table to make the third cut.

30. Insert a piece of 1/8" thick hardboard between the saw kerf and place the other 18" long surface on the table.

31. Use a clamp to hold the hardboard in place and make fourth and final cut. NOTE: The hardboard will keep the kerf from closing up and binding on the blade.

32. Locate the fence for the cuts that will remove the top from the case, making sure that the saw blade will cut a kerf that is centered on the glue line between the third and fourth finger joints (from the top edge.

33. Sand these finger joints to achieve about a 3/8" thickness.

34. Cut the front, back, and side spacers (I and J) to size.

35. Glue the spacers in place, using the glue sparingly to avoid squeeze out along the top edge.

36. Select a piece of 3/4" thick birch plywood from which to make the holder (K).

37. Cut the holder to length and width.

38. Use a 17/64" diameter twist drill bit to make the holes for 1/4" shank router bits.

39. Glue the holder handle (L) in place to the 1/2" x 1/2" rabbet cut in the ends of the holder.

40. Final sand.

41. Add the hinges (M) and the hasp (N).

42. Use a 1/4" diameter wooden peg to keep the lid closed, or add a padlock if desired.

43. Apply two coats of polyurethane varnish to finish.

These plans were originally published in Volume 10, Issue 5 of The Woodworker's Journal (Sept./Oct. 1986, pages 53-54).