Creative Woodworks & crafts 1998-03, страница 36

as possible within the cavity. For thin areas, use a smaller round carbide burr (No. 4). For details, like the fine hair in the design, use a sharp pointed, tapered carbide burr (No. 169). Step 6. When all the handpiece work is done, use a sharp pick to scrape out ihe entire design. Then use a stiff bristled brush to clean out the whole cavity, as shown in Fig. 3. You might want to finish the cleaning by blowing air into the cavity. Any wood dust that remains in the cavity will float to the surface while the resin is curing and leave blemishes in the finished piece. With the cavity clean, remove the remaining stencil by saturating a folded paper towel and laying it on top of the paper. In about five minutes, remove the paper towel and peel off the remaining stencil.

Step 7. Prepare casting resin by adding the desired pigment and a proportional amount of catalyst. The depression can now be filled with the casting resin. Try not to gel any resin on surrounding areas (see Fig. 4). Wait until the resin has fully cured before proceeding to the next step. If you notice any voids or imperfections, use a pick or a knife lo open up the area as much as possible, prepare a small batch of the same pigmented resin, then fill in Ihe defects. Step 8. With the resin fully cured, it's time to match the surface level of the resin to that of the wood. A sanding block is used for this purpose fsee Fig. 5). Once the resin has been reduced to the level of the wood, use fine grii sandpaper followed by fine steel wool to finish it out. "i'he surrounding wood will have to be reftnished land that subject is nol in Ihe scope of this presentation). 'Ihe finished product will astound your friends and will cost you only about an hour of your time.

For more information about the Ultra Speed Turbo-Carver, contact Ultra Speed Products, Inc., 18500 East Aschoff fid.. Zigzag, Oregon 97049-9707, (503) 622-4387, fax (503) 622-3252, or chcck out their web page at <www.morneL.com/ultrasptied>.

Fig. 4. Fiil the cavity with

resfn.

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Working with resin©

Either polyester or epoxy resin can be used in this process and both are available at craft and hardware stores. Figments are generally available through plastic and paint supply outlets. Pigments are added to the resin to simulate materials such as ivory, metals or mother of pearl, and come in any color under the rainbow.

The resin should fill the cavity to above the level of the surface of the wood. This is necessary because the resin will shrink somewhat when cured, which can cause defects in the finished inlay surface.

It is a good idea to practice using casting resin on samples before you work on a valuable object. Cure time and shrink rate will vary widely based on many factors such as humidity, temperature, amount of catalyst, amount of pigments added, the material you are working with, and the type of chemicals present in the wood.

If resin is poured into a cavity 3/16"-deep or more, it will shrink noticeably and leave a uniform gap along the outline. You can then fill the cavity a second time to ciose up any gaps. On a curved surface like our gun stock, you wilt have to do at least two pours to get the resin to follow the curvature. The second pour should only cover a band running along the high crest of the stock curvature.

Use a sharp pick to draw resin into intricate passages and to pull bubbles out. The finished pour should be about 1/16" higher than the surface of the wood.

Mixing the resin and pigment.

The finished pour should fee about 1/16" higher than the wood surface.

Use a sharp pick to draw the resin into the intricate passages and to pull bubbles out.