Creative Woodworks & crafts 2001-08, страница 22

SUPPLIES

Wood: light colored western red cedar— one piece 1" x 8" x 12"; medium tight colored western red cedar— one piece 1" x 2-1/2" x 6"; dark colored western red cedar—one piece I" x 6" x 6"; aspen—one piece 1" x 4" x 6"; aromatic cedar— one piece 1" x 2" x 2"; black wainut— one piece 1" x 1" x 2"; padauk— one piece 1" x 2" x 2"; birch or pine— one piece 1-1/2" x 10" x 10" (for the body); Baltic birch plywood—two pieces 1/4" x 10" x 10" (for the front and back boards)

Toots; scroll saw with Olson PGT No. 9 blades; band saw with a 1/8" blade; drill with 1/4"-Dia. and 1/2"-Dia. brad point bits and a 1-1/2"-Dia. Forstner bit, Pnematic drum sander* Spring clamp Wood glue 3/4" wood screws

Two 1/4"-Dia. x 1/2" long walnut dowels 1-1/2"-Dia. dowel or toy wheel Minwax Satin Durathane or finish of choice Garnet Hall has written a great book about intarsia. Entitled The Art of Intarsia, it features 20 great projects, and tons of helpful tips and info. It is available from PS Wood Machines, 3032 Industrial Blvd., Bethel Park, PA 15102; (800) 939-4414. Price is $ 17.95 plus $4.50 <S&H)/U. $. or can be ordered directly from Garnet Hall, Box 549, Stoughton, Sk, Canada SOG 4T0; (800) 729-2473. For more of Garnet Hall's great designs, visit his website at www.sawbird.com.

' Available from Garnet Hall,Box 549, Stoughton, Sk, Canada SOG 4T0; (800) 729-2473 or from PS Wood Machines, 3032 Industrial Blvd,, Bethel Park, PA 15102; (800) 939-4414.

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Piggy

by Garnet Hall

Bank

INSTRUCTIONS

This project is another version of that classic, "The Piggy Bank." It's a great project to save all your pocket change in—by the way, the bank also holds bills. This bank doesn't have a hole to empty it, so here's how it's going to work. When the bank is full, just send it to me and I will replace it with an empty one. I will pay postage both ways. If you believe this, I also have a bridge for sale.

My bank is an intarsia adaptation that I hope you will find interesting and challenging. I think it will bring a smile to the face of any child or grandchild.

The body of the bank can be cut out of any 1-1/2" material such as pine or birch. Make the intarsia pig face first, using whichever technique you prefer. I like to make a template of the pattern and trace it onto the wood. Cut carefully and the pieces should fit for you. Raise and lower them as the pattern suggests. This will give the project more of a relief look. Shape the pieces with whichever tool you prefer. I like using small pneumatic sanding drums (see Fig. 1). I use a flap sander to smooth the pieces (see Fig. 2). Make sure you are wearing a dust mask for these steps.

Once the face is shaped to your liking, assemble it on the 1-1/2" material and trace around it. You could use my outline from the pattern, but projects often change as a result of the fitting and shaping, so it's best to trace the actual face onto the 1-1/2" material. Cut the bank body about 1/8" smaller than the face.

Cut out the inside of the body as indicated on the pattern (see Fig. 3). You will need a good blade to cut this thickness on a scroll saw. I used an Olson PGT No. 9 which handled it fine. I actually made my first version of this bank out of full 2" birch, a challenge for any blade.

You will need to be particularly careful cutting out the left ear, which is removable to put the coins in. A band saw with a 1/8" blade works well here. If you use a scroll saw, cut slowly, giving the blade time to cut the radius without blade waiver. The piece has to be able to slide out the back of the bank body, so it has to be cut absolutely perpendicular. The scroll saw leaves a smaller kerf so the piece will fit better.

Next, make the front and back boards. I used 1/4" Baltic birch plywood. Notice on the pattern that the front and back boards are a bit different.

The first thing to be aware of is that when you cut out the bank body, it is likely to spread a bit where the left ear is. So, when you trace out the front and back boards, put the ear part in and clamp across the coin opening as indicated on the pattern. I used a spring clamp small enough to fit in the bank body (see Fig. 4).

The front board is cut off where the dotted line indicates. The back board has the whole left ear cut out of it. This will allow the ear to be removed from the back and not from the front.

Glue the front board onto the bank body with the left ear piece in place and clamped. I used 3/4" wood screws to hold the front board in place while the glue dried. Once dry, I removed them (see Fig. 5). Glue the ear piece cut from the front board onto the left ear.

Drill a 1-1/2" hole in the back board for a place to remove the coins. (I gave up on my returnable bank idea.)

Cut a piece the shape of the dotted outline on the back pattern for the hole plug. Glue on a 1 -1/2" dowel or use a 1-1/2" toy wheel. It will friction fit. If a bit loose, spread some glue around the dowel

22 • Creative Woodworks S. Crafts August 2001