Creative Woodworks & crafts 2002-09, страница 25
Jr THE ALL-STEEL X ARROW T50TPBN ARROW'S Professional T5IPPBN is steel This all-steel ARROW tool won't let you inside and out. Beneath its durable down during a rough day on the job. It's housing, carbon hardened steel working simply built to last. And, the fact that the parts add years of precision performance TSO^'PBN shoots 6 different size staples, to the T50®PBN. There are no internal plus brad nails too, means that it will plastic parts to quickly wear out. tackle a wide range of fastening jobs. Available at lumberyards, home centers, and neighborhood hardware stores wwm wherever fine toots are sold. fflbsbst - mams. ■__'■ made in '- ; l r ^^ HECHO EM E.U.A. Arrow Fastener Co., Inc., 27* "vlayhit Street, Saddle Erook, New Jersey 07fi63 Canada: Jardei DistBbutors,.lnc.,"6505 Metropolitan Blvd. East, Montreal, QuebecHIP 1X9 United Kingdom: Arrow Fastener (If,K.) Ltd., 14 Barclay Road, Croydon,, Surrey CRO UN www.arrowfastener.cbm' feooi Ar&W/istoic.' Co., Inc. Contouring egin with the lowest pieces first. Sand to taper the back i'dges of the fins and tail (see Fig. 11) so they don't look Hick and clunky. Round the outside edges of the body with a sanding "rum or, if you have a table-mounted router, you can concur the edges with a 3/3" roundover bit. Tightly tape the 'egments of the body together, on both sides and ends, ,. ,'ith masking tape. Rout the edges in two passes fo present tear out (see Fig. 12). Leave the tape on the back and ends of the body and iJse the finish sander to further round the edges and smooth the body (see Fig. 13). Don't sand the edges too far toward the back or the fins won't fit properly. Reassemble the parts of the head and trace the contour of the body on the edge of the head (see Fig. 14). Sand to contour using the pencil line as a guide (see Fig. 15). Repeat these steps with the other elevated pieces, contouring them so that they, flow together like a carving. Refer to the "Typical Contours" illustration in the pattern sec-: tion and the picture of the completed project for clarity. After shaping with the sanding drums, smooth the pieces by hand-sanding, or use a sanding mop (see Fig. 16). Ebonizing . Make the ebonizing solution by putting a steel wool pad in .f a jar, preferably one with a plastid lid so it doesn 't rust. Add 8 ounces of vinegar; cap and set aside for 24 hours. Strain the solution through a piece of cloth, an old sock works fine. Separate tho pieces to be ebonized from the ones that will be left white. Brush the vinegar solution onto the pieces to be ebonized (see Fig. 17). Allow to dry overnight, then lightly go over the surface with a 180 grit sanding mop in the drill press at approximately 130Q rpm. SUPPLIES Wood: curly hard maple*—one piece 3/4" x 5" x 16" (for the body and white pieces); ash—one piece 3/4" x 5" x 16" (for the darker pieces); plywood—one piece 1/4" x 8" x 21" (for the backer); small pieces of 1 /16" and 1 /8" plywood (forshims). Tools: scroll saw with assorted blades; band saw (optional); drill press with assorted sanding drums; 9/16"-Dia. spade bit and 3/16"-Dia. bit; finish sander; sanding mop (formerly known as the flutter wheel) with 100 and 180 grit abrasive. Tracing paper** Red transfer paper*" Pencil Stylus 5-minute epoxy Slow set epoxy Carpenter's glue Masking tape Clear packing tape Double stick tape Sandpaper, assorted grits Pipe clamps C-clamps Wax paper Steel wool pad (1) 8 ounces vinegar Jar 14mm glass eye*** Clear spray finish of choice Hanger *Available from Ocooch Hardwoods, (888-322-2432); www.ocoochhardwoods.com **Available from Dick Blick Art Materials, (800-828-4548); www.dick-blick.com ***Available from Wildlife Intarsia Designs, (708-788-6455); www. wildlifein tarsiadesign.com |
