Creative Woodworks & crafts 2003-08, страница 50

Wall Mount for Telephone Center

by Scott Edgar

INSTRUCTIONS

introduction

Well it didn't take long to figure that something additional was needed for the telephone center I built in the last issue of Creative Woodworks & Crafts. Everyone that saw the telephone center wanted one, but several people said their phone jack was located on a wall away from their counter. If you have a limited amount of counter space, or your phone jack is not nearby, then the wall bracket may be the thing for you. It is easy to build and will give you additional choices for locating your phone.

This design provides a strong shelf, not fancy or frilly, that we have found has several other uses around our house in addition to acting as the telephone center. So, even if you did not build the telephone center in the previous issue, you still may want to try your hand at building this shelf.

Measure twice, cut once

Before starting this project, verify the dimensions of your phone center. The outside measurements of mine were 11-5/16" deep x 19-9/16" long. Take these measurements at the bottom trim.

Cutting all three pieces for the frame at the same time will ensure that all the frame pieces will match. First, cut the front piece 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 23" long, and two pieces 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 14" long. These will all be cut to the correct length after putting the rabbet in each piece. Set up a rabbet bit in your router and cut the rabbet in the upper inside corner of each piece, as shown in Fig. 1. After completing the rabbets, cut

the three to the correct length as shown in Fig. 2. The corners should be cut to 45°.

The shelf bracket (D) is cut from 1/2" plywood (see Fig. 3). Trace the shape from the full-size pattern and cut using a band saw or scroll saw. Use hot glue or double-sided tape to hold the pieces together while cutting.

The uprights (C) should be cut next (see Fig. 4). Cut two pieces 3/4" x 2" x 12" long. Set up your router and cut a roman ogee edge into the bottom outside corner of each piece. Cut a 1-1/8" deep, 3/4" wide notch in the outside upper corner. The top frame end will fit into this notch and the top of the upright will be flush with the rabbet. You should now cut in the 1 /2" wide, 1 /8" stopped groove. The groove can be cut by first drilling a sequence of 1 /2" holes with a Forstner bit and then carefully straightening the edge with a chisel (see Fig. 5). Note: Fig. 6 shows the outer edge of the groove. This is the one that will be seen. Fitting the bracket into a stopped groove has two purposes: the shelf is stronger because the more downward pressure that is exerted the tighter the support will be pressed into the groove; and second, the groove will make a neater joint between the upright and the bracket. Finally, drill the required hole for the size wall anchors you will be using to attach the shelf to the wall.

Cut two pieces 3/4" x 1-3/8" x 11-3/4" long each for the supports (E). The end frame (B) and the supports (E) will be glued together with a couple of "0" biscuits for each side. You should cut all four slots for the biscuits (two for each end of the shelf) but don't glue them together yet (see Fig. 7). Keep in mind when you cut the biscuit slots in the end frame that the top of the support (E) will be flush with the bottom of the rabbet in the end frame (B). You will have to reset the biscuit depth for the slots in the end frame.

What's a joint like you doing in a place like this? I haven't read much about using dowel joints lately, but I found they definitely have their place in woodworking. A strong glue joint is hard to achieve when gluing the end of a workpiece, because the glue will get drawn into the end grain. Biscuits work well, but many times the piece is to narrow

BILL OF MATERIALS

Part Description Size in inches Quan

oak or wood of choice

A Front frame 3/4x1-1/2x21-3/4 1

B Endframe 3/4 x 1-1/2 x .13 1/4 2

C Upright 3/4x2x12 2

D Bracket 1/2x7-7/8x8-1/2 2

E Support 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 11-3/4 2

SUPPLIES

Tools: scroll saw or band saw with 1 /4" or thinner blade; drill press; miter saw; table saw; router with roman ogee bit and rabbeting bit; 3/8" and 1/2"-Dia. Forstner bits; dowel centers; "0" biscuits: biscuit jointer; 1 /2" chisel Wood glue

Hot glue or double-sided tape Sandpaper 3/8"-Dia. x 8" dowel Finish of choice

14 • Creative Woodworks S. Crafts August 2003