Popular Woodworking 2000-02 № 113, страница 12
Output from a 10" blade includes a bowl shape almost 10" across and 3" deep.The starting block can be square, round or even rectangular, just as long as the size can be handled by the jig. The overhead jig.The jig, centered over the saw blade, is clamped in place.The jig, as dimensioned, can be used with work pieces up to 12" square and about 4" thick. Secure workpieces with the pivot point (the piece shown is a bit too large for the jig).Adjust the pivot so the work is held firmly but will rotate. Secure the pivot setting with a lock nut. Coving Jig A/'uf- ^ (W) 3/f»*4* ' ft Ji/srztm jW^x m mir - ted® fd s/ffltm^ J/f/r&AtrS/Zg SWSMteS The JigYou Need I use this idea for inside cuts (bowl shapes) and perimeter cuts. Two jigs perform the cuts. The overhead jig, shown in the drawing titled "Coving Jig," is for bowl shapes. It's sized so I can rotate a 31/2"-thick x 12" square block under the pivot screw. Start the project by sizing the platform and making two guide bars to suit the slots in the saw table. Set the rip fence so the platform will be centered over the blade, and slip the guide bars into place. Secure the guides by driving 5/s" brads through the platform. If you want, remove the guides and reinstall them after applying glue. Now raise the blade with the as sembly in place and form a centered kerf about 11" long. Make the verticals by first tack-nailing together the two pieces. Next cut the slants on the sides and form the U-shape required for the bar on both pieces. You can form the U-shape with a dado if you use a miter gauge with an extension that will provide 10 Popular Woodworking February 2000 |
