Popular Woodworking 2000-02 № 113, страница 8
terns? Congratulations on a fine article, and an even finer piece of work. Barry W. Larson Calgary, Alberta Editor's note: If you have a computer assisted design (CAD) program for your computer that can translate DWG files, check out our website at www.popwood.com/ fixes/blacker.html to download this file. Another Skeptic Converted to the $19.99 Dovetail Jig I read your article in the September issue (#110) "19.99 Dovetail Jig" and was skeptical about it being this easy, so I tried it. I am an amateur tinkerer and aspiring woodworker. I built a drawer from wood lying around my garage and it turned out great. I would have never attempted starting a project that included making drawers before, but now I can't wait to try one. Oh, and my template guide and router bit was $23.59, but only because I couldn't find a guide to fit my Ryobi router, except to order one from Ryobi. Jim Treece Knoxville, Tennessee Another Way to Remove Rust fromYour Table Saw To remove rust from a cast iron top, here's what I do: Use a random-orbit sander with emery cloth until the entire table is bright. Wipe the table with a clean cloth and then apply paste wax. Now I can set soda cans, beer cans, lemonade glasses or whatever on it. I even had to let it sit out in a storm once (covered, of course) with no problems. This process keeps the finish nice and also makes the wood slide over the table like velvet. It's almost unbelievable how nice and smooth the "action" of your work is. Robert Mauk Lusby, Maryland Rust Cannot be Removed, Only Prevented Years ago I was testing the rust resistance of a hydraulic oil using new steel panels. On one occasion when I was out of new panels for the test, I sandblasted some old rusted ones. Guess what? They rusted in the same pattern they had earlier. Rust gets into the pores of iron just like mildew gets into the pores of the wood and is difficult if not impossible to remove. The best defense is to not let it rust in the first place. The oil on your drill press' table will keep moisture in the air from reaching clean metal. But some day the rust will be back in the same places it was earlier. R.E. Kreider Oakland, California Question About the Miter Sled Your miter sled (November 1999 #111) is a very interesting design, and I plan on building one very shortly. But before I get started, I have a few questions. 1. From where the operator stands (at the front of table saw) your sled works on the right side of the saw blade. Did you choose the right side of the blade for a particular reason? Are you left-handed? The reason I ask is because I'm right-handed and normally I keep the saw fence to the right of the saw blade. 2. With reference to the sketch of your radius cutting jig, perhaps you can clarify a few things for me. Is that a studded knob with a t-nut which you used to "lock down" the slide? What kind of fasteners did you use to join the V4" Plexiglas to the upper slide section? Does the V4"-thick plywood bottom have a H" notch on each side to bring the bottom piece down to a width of 21/2"? One last question: What range of radii can be handled with this jig? Norman H. Camire Haines City, Florida Editor's note: I chose the right side of the blade for the sled so I could use the saw's rip fence for longer crosscuts. Simply clamp a gauge block to your fence in front of the blade so you don't trap your work between the blade and fence. Then set your fence for the desired long cut (over 25") and run it through. If you have reservations about using the right side of the blade, just reverse everything and go to the left side. As to question #2, all fasteners are 1/4"-20 threads. The t-nut is a l/4"-20, but the outside diameter of the threaded part is 5/l6" '. I simply used #6 x wood screws Continued on page 12 |
