Popular Woodworking 2001-08 № 123, страница 59
When attaching the top to the leg assembly, use elongated holes drilled in the cross braces to allow for wood movement due to changes in humidity.
ter of the cross braces, cutting into the through-tenon on the leg. Check the fit and make any necessary adjustment. When the fit is good, add a screw to the joints to make it a little stronger.
A groove in the top edge of the drawer sides slips over the drawer runners that are attached to the ends for a simple, but very efficient, drawer slide.
Make the Drawer
The drawer is made with traditional dovetail joinery. I used hand-cut half-blind dovetails on the drawer front and sides, and through-dovetails on the back. The drawer bottom fits into a ^"-deep x groove in the sides and back, held up 3/l6" from the bottom of the sides. Another 3/l6"- deep x 1/4"-wide groove is cut on the outside of the drawer sides, 3/16" down from the top edge to serve as part of the drawer runner.
Attaching the Legs and Drawer
The drawer is hung on the legs using two drawer runners screwed to the inside of each leg. Adjust the location of the runners to allow the drawer to slide freely. Conveniently, this table design allows you to adjust the drawer's fit before the top is attached. Use screws and elongated holes drilled in
Scale: 1 square = 1"
the top cross braces to attach the top to the legs.
After everything fits well, remove the top and sand all the pieces in preparation for finishing. I used a water-base aniline dye (Moser's Dark Antique Cherry, Woodworker's Supply, 800-645-9292) to color the piece. I then followed the dye with a ragged-on coat of boiled linseed oil, a coat of clear shellac to seal the oil and then a final top coat of clear lacquer.
You may not be looking to drum up word of mouth about your woodworking to help your business, by I guarantee this piece will stir up word of mouth about your skills among your friends and family. PW
59 Popular Woodworking August 2001