Popular Woodworking 2002-08 № 129, страница 66
Gluing Without Clamps Whether you're using regular glue, cyanoacry-late or a new fast-drying polyurethane, the easiest way to glue the shade's miter is using masking tape.Align the two halves face-up on a flat surface and push the mitered edges together. Carefully apply a strip of masking tape along the joint, pressing to keep it tight to the wood.When you lift the two halves and fold them at the joint, the tape forces the miter together. Flip the shade over (miter gap up) and add glue to the joint (left). Fold the two halves together, using the shade base as a guide to keep the shade square (right) as the glue sets.Then apply glue to two edges of the shade base and glue it to the inside of the shade, holding it flush to the bottom edge of the shade. The wax paper makes this task easier without gluing the whole thing to the work table. after it's assembled because even though it's a fairly sturdy shade you don't want to put too much pressure on it. With the shade ready to assemble, follow the photos to make the process simple and clamp-free. After the shade is glued-up, sand all the edges to give a softer appearance. Then you're ready to add a clear finish and let the beautiful walnut pop. Finishing Touches During the past year or two I've become fond of using lacquer in a spray can for small projects. It's not the least expensive way to put on a finish, but it dries quickly between coats, provides an even and durable finish and requires nothing more than a well-ventilated work area. Two cautions: This method is really only recommended for smaller projects as it becomes difficult to spray on an even finish over larger areas. Also, make sure you're spraying lacquer and not a ure-thane-based spray finish. Read the label carefully. Even though it may not call the product lac quer, if it recommends 30 minutes or so between coats, you've got the right stuff (and it usually takes less than 30 minutes to sand and recoat). With your finish applied to both the shade and as a top coat on the base to protect the paint, you're ready to wire the lamp. I've provided information on two types of hardware kits. One offers a simple on/off turn switch on the socket, while the other offers a dimmer switch on the socket. While more expensive, I've found that I enjoy the ability to adjust the intensity of the light emitted to fit my mood. Neither kit includes the 40-or 60-watt display bulb and light cord, which can be purchased at most any hardware store. I've got two of these lamps wired together on my fireplace mantel, and another on my desk. This project lends itself to making more than one at a time, so consider where your house can benefit from extra ambience, or think about special friends or relatives who deserve a nice gift. PW One of the trickiest parts of this generally simple project was gluing the shade together. Because of the odd shape and very visible miter, I originally used a cyanoacry-late glue (Super Glue) to glue the miter and shade base in place.That was before the folks from Franklin International showed us the new HiPurformer glue.What is it? Polyurethane bonding strength and versatility with an initial set time of 30-75 seconds. Even better, because it's a "hot melt" glue it doesn't foam out like traditional poly, and if it gets on your hands, it dries, balls-up and rubs off. If you need quick, clamp-free adhesion with epoxy-like holding power (as I did in this case), this is a great option. I'm looking forward to trying it in other applications. The glue comes in three blends (so far): two woodworking glues (with 30- and 60-second set times) and a third multipurpose blend designed for bonding almost everything else, including glass, ceramics, brick and metal.We were skeptical until we let the glue heat up and made some quick test pieces.We tried long grain-to-long grain, short grain-to-short grain and even butt joints. No clamps.We then waited about 10 minutes. We had to break the pieces over a workbench to get them apart.The short grain and butt joints failed sooner, but the strength provided would easily hold a picture (or door?) frame together. In many cases during our "test" it was the wood that failed, and not the glue. The system is a little expensive ($99 to start for the gun, carrying case and three tubes of glue), so this isn't going to replace the bottle of glue on your workbench. Depending on your woodworking, HiPurformer may be the product you need. Contact Woodcraft (800-225-1153 or www.woodcraft.com). 65 |
