Popular Woodworking 2002-08 № 129, страница 69

A self-centering doweling jig (above) makes quick work of drilling the holes for the dowel pins. Just make sure your jig really hits the center of the work -some do not.A little glue is all it takes to secure the pin in its hole.

foot. But the plan and procedure that follows can be used for any style or size extension table. When you visit the web sites listed in the supplies box at the end of the article, you'll see how easy it is to customize your table to fit almost any furniture style by choosing different legs and altering the apron just a bit.

Begin with the Aprons

The aprons on the table are 4V4" wide with small knee brackets glued on the ends to act as a transition into the curve on the legs. (Many of the other styles of legs

available for sale will not need a transitional detail on the apron.)

When making the aprons, the first thing to do is to cut the tenons on the ends. The tenons measure thick, 3V4" wide and 1" long. I cut mine using a dado stack and a miter gauge on my table saw. To cut the face cheeks and shoulders, set the height of the dado stack to

and the fence at 1" from the left-most blade in your dado stack.

To cut the edge shoulders and cheeks on the tenons, raise the height of the dado stack to V2" and leave the fence at 1". Test the

fit of your tenons in a sample mortise cut using your hollow-chisel mortiser, plunge router or chisel.

With the tenons cut, glue ³/4" x 2" x 4V2" blocks on the edges at

the ends of the aprons. Try to match the grain and color of the blocks and aprons as best you can. When the glue is dry, use a band saw or jigsaw to cut the detail

EXTENSION TABLE

"Thickness and width refers to the block at the top of the leg

"Thickness and width refers to the block at the top of the leg

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Popular Woodworking August 2002