Popular Woodworking 2003-12 № 138, страница 19

larly maple, my favorite). I have a Delta ³/4-horsepower drill press (converted to 240-volt service) and I'm surprised it doesn't have the "oomph" to drive that bit. Am I expecting too much from a bit that size, or should my press be able to drive that bit at its slowest speed (215 rpm) regardless of wood? By the way, the bit is high-speed steel and is sharp.

Greg Long Corvallis, Oregon

My guess is that your machine should indeed have the power to make that cut. You might want to check a couple of things on the machine (if you haven't already): First, make sure your belts are snug. They shouldn't deflect more than ^4" under pressure from your finger. Second, check the nuts on top of the step pulleys. These can loosen and cause the exact problem you are describing. Tighten them up with a wrench. Third, if you ever do need to squeeze more power out of a machine, replace the V-belts with Powertwist link belts (available almost everywhere for about $5 a foot). These transmit power more efficiently and are less likely to slip.

— Christopher Schwarz, executive editor

Should I be Concerned About Microbevels on my Block Plane?

When sharpening the iron for a low-angle block plane (where the bevel always faces upwards), the angle of that bevel directly affects the angle of the cut against the wood. Wouldn't putting a microbevel on the iron increase the angle, thereby defeating one of the purposes of a low-angle plane?

I've never seen this question addressed in articles on planes and sharpening.

Bill Law Cincinnati, Ohio

You are correct: A microbevel will change the cutting geometry of a bevel-up plane, such as a block plane. But usually a microbevel is just a degree or two, so it shouldn't change things radically. If you are experiencing problems that you think are related to the cutting geometry (i.e., more tear-out than you expect) you might want to first see what your actual cutting angle is. If it's too high, regrind your iron and start over with a fresh edge.

You might want to think about trying a 23° or 24° primary bevel (as opposed to the standard 25°). Then your microbevel will take you

back to factory-perfect. Another solution is to dispense with the microbevel altogether and hone the entire primary bevel. Block planes are small suckers, so this isn't too onerous.

Finally, don't be afraid to experiment with different angles on your block plane. Some woodworkers grind the bevel at 20°. This angle is great for trimming end grain, but the edge is more likely to fail prematurely. Let your work and your patience for sharpening be your guide.

— Christopher Schwarz, executive editor

How Should I Finish a Redwood Deck?

We are constructing a nice-sized redwood deck on our log home in Arizona. Our dilemma is how to finish it.

I have seen stains that others have put on their redwood decks that leave a surface layer that splits and cracks after a short time in the direct Arizona sun and heat. I am considering boiled linseed oil as a treatment for the redwood. I don't care for the oil/varnish mixtures because they, too, leave a surface layer. Given my direct sunlight and heat situation, what do you recommend?

Ray Pfeffer Seligman, Arizona

Linseed oil attracts mildew in some of the damper climates. I don't know if there's enough moisture where you live for this to be a big problem. But the linseed oil will be wiped out by the sun very quickly. It will just disappear, so I don't recommend you use it.

The way I see it, you have two choices. If you don't mind the wood turning gray, just leave it bare. The surface will gray (I'm sure you see this gray color on wood all the time in Arizona), but the wood will hold up great. Redwood does not split nearly as much as pressure-treated pine.

If you want to keep the redwood color, the only way to do this is to stain the wood with a redwood-colored stain and reapply it whenever the color begins to wear off. This is the only way that I know of because no clear finish, oil or anything else will prevent the wood from graying from the ultraviolet light.

Just use any deck stain you can find at a nearby home center. Water-based stains have a tendency to build, so they are more likely to crack than oil-based stains, which soak in better. I'd use an oil-based stain, meaning one that thins with paint thinner. PW

— Bob Flexner, contributing editor

popwood.com

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