Popular Woodworking 2005-02 № 146, страница 94

Single-unit design accomplishes the boat shape in one session. Less than three hours has elapsed since the epoxy was first spread. From left to right, Eisenlord, Hott, Merlin and Sarge clean the epoxy squeeze-out before it hardens. Note the use of 5-cent PVC clamps along with regular C-clamps.

the pile as long as you put it back. This is not so with softwood yards primarily catering to the home-construction market.

You need to enlist the support of the yardman at the outset. He may even wish to build a boat himself, and will want to see you be successful. After all, the number of pieces you need is rather small, but quality is important. If you don't get the help you need, try returning another day and work with another yardman, or go elsewhere.

Solid wood is used for the long thin pieces cut for mast and sprit, gunwales along the edges for clarity and keel for the bottom. The seats, small deck, transom knees, rudder and tiller, and leeboard are also all cut from solid wood (see above right). I use a combination of softwood and hardwood in my boats, but it can all be made from softwood by following simple rules of thumb: Select heavier pieces of wood that have more strength and increase the thickness by 25 percent when using softwood.

What you will find in straight-grained, relatively knot-free lumber the day you go shopping

is pretty hard to say. Just don't forget to get on the good side of your yardman. Also, it's helpful to know that longer lengths are more likely to yield straighter-grained, knot-free sections than the shorter ones.

The result of a three-hour work session is the completed hull.

With the bottom ply cut to shape, and the chine logs planed flat, Lars and Hott hold the boat while Merlin trims the stem so that the bottom can go together.

Sarge and I begin the inside work with fitting the small deck block. Together with the inside gunwhale and transom knees, this will contribute stiffness to the hull.

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