Popular Woodworking 2005-10 № 150, страница 64
Oil Wicke Help your hand planes glide effortlessly with lubrication from a continental bench accessory. In the countless dark and dreary woodworking shops around Europe, before modern times and machines turned them into icons of days gone by, craftsmen made every minute count. After all, this was about putting bread on the table and anything that would make life easier was sorely welcome. Chances are, shortly after man put a plane to wood he discovered that lubricating the plane's sole was a good thing. The effort of pushing or pulling the plane over the surface became easier and thus better. One can only imagine the oils people tried, and the results. Olive oil would go rancid, while others left a sticky mess and damaged the workpiece. Eventually, it was discovered that one particular oil was a better choice. Raw linseed oil, courtesy of the seeds of the flax plant, turned out to be a leading contender because it was readily available and cheap. Applying the oil to the plane is where the oil wicke, or plane wick, proved itself. Using materials readily available, a benchtop wicke can be made in a short time and will provide months of service with nary a thought. Making Planing Easier Even today there's a need for this simple device. Once you use one, you'll be convinced of its value. The way an oiled plane glides over a surface is truly remarkable in the ease of work. Also, a plane is less likely to "chatter" through the abrupt starts and stops caused by excess friction between the work surface and the plane. Building an Oil Wicke Constructing this inexpensive device simply requires materials on hand and should take less than two hours. You'll need a block of wood, a tin can, a couple old socks and a piece of sandpaper. Find a suitable piece of wood that's about 8" long, 3" high and 5" wide. Basically, you want to end up with an oil wicke that has enough stability to stay put as you slide the plane over it. Take a little time to add a personal touch to the block. After all, any woodworker who sees it will ask about and examine it. A bit of detail provides an attractive touch. Take the time to personalize your oil wicke. For my tin can I bought an old Kayes oil can from my favorite Scottish tool source, Andy Stephens (toolbazaar.co.uk). You can see the can's lid in the photo above. Next, wash out an empty tin can and trace the outline onto the block of wood. Excavate the hole. I drill 3/4" holes with a Forstner bit and then work out the waste with chisels. A ZV^'-deep hole allows for a good reserve of oil. Once the can fits, trim it so that the cut portion of the can rests below the surface of the wood. Sand the inside of the opening so that no sharp edges are left. Attach sandpaper to the bottom of the block, so that it stays put while in use. Two socks rolled up and tightly packed into the can, slightly proud, complete the construction. Today we have many oils to choose from. Some people prefer mineral oil, but the old standby is raw linseed oil. Never use boiled linseed oil because of the possibility of spontaneous combustion. Pour enough oil in so that the top of the wicke will give off a slight amount. You don't want it to be by Samuel Peterson Samuel is a traditional woodworker who enjoys building period furniture the old way. His varied interests are brought out in the sometimes obscure topics he writes about. extremely wet at the top. With the wicke tightly packed and loaded, it's now ready to use. Before planing, and after every five or 10 strokes, pull the plane backwards on the oil wicke. If it doesn't have the desired effect, put more oil in the wicke. PW BUILT-IN OILING DEVICES: Ever wonder about that "hang hole" in your metal plane? That hole just in front of or under the front knob that everyone assumes was used to hang a plane from a wall? Guess what: This might have been the distribution point for an aftermarket self-oiler in your front knob. These oilers were short-lived gizmos that soon proved to be more trouble than they were worth. Many were sold, but few remain so the next time you find a plane with an extra hole take a moment and see if the knob was designed to be filled with oil. - SP 61 Popular Woodworking October 2005 |
