Popular Woodworking 2006-12 № 159, страница 50

or decrease the amount of stock you remove, and also by moving the lateral adjustment lever to set your iron at 90° to the platform so that the angles are perfectly perpendicular to the stock being trimmed. Using a low-angle plane with an adjustable mouth enables you to open and close the throat of the plane to suit your needs.

When you build your shooting board, I recommend that your stops, which hold the work, be removable. Stops are by necessity disposable. Inevitably the stops wear, shrink, bruise and in other ways distort through continued use. They take a lot of beating, so removable stops are the answer.

I also recommend you make the stops taper and wedge into tapered recesses (no glue) so the stops can be tapped tight against the angled shoulders during seasonal shrinkage.

To make a basic shooting board you will need either a suitable hardwood, or you can combine hardwood with some type of hardwood plywood, such as Finnish birch, for the main baseboard. I used mahogany to make mine. Other woods such as cherry, walnut or oak would also work well, but whichever wood you use you must make sure that the wood is well seasoned to minimize the possibility of any distortion that might affect the stability or accuracy of the board.

This shooting board will trim stock at both 90° and 45°. Follow the photos on these pages to build your own.

BASIC SHOOTING BOARD

l L L L

1³/4 l^l/4 P'^ace the tapered ^st0P against the 90° and the 45° pencil lines i3/₄ⁿ''

and mark the position of the tapered lines according to the drawing.

Plan - fence platform

Typical tapered recess to receive removable tapered stop

Plastic laminate glued to main baseboard

Layout for building a conventional shooting board for 45° & 90° cuts

Square stop

Angled stop

*Stops taper in width from iVi" at one end to 1V4" at the other.

Underside stop

Exploded view

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