Popular Woodworking 2009-02 № 174, страница 21
I Can Do That •— Hold it right there. Make a 45° cut in a thick scrap to use as a stop. This will hold the moulding securely as you make the miter cuts. Now place all four sides of the moulding against the tray bottom and check the fit. Tape each corner (except one) tightly around the edge with packing tape to form the four-sided moulding frame. Then open the corners and lay the taped side down. It will be a long strip of wood with open taped joints. Put a thin coat of glue on each of the miters and let it dry for about 10 minutes. The glue will soak into the short grain and form a slight coaling. Add another thin coat of glue to the miters and press the first joint together, mak-ingsure it fits together as it should. If there'sany squeeze-out, wipe it away with a wet rag. Work your way around each joint, and when you've glued the last one, add tape to that joint as well. Check for squareness, and when you're sure the joints are square, add another piece of tape across each corner to hold it square as it dries. Let it dry for a few hours. Remove the tape from the corners and clean up any squeeze-out on the bottom side of the frame so it will lay perfectly flat on the tray. Do It Again This process is repeated for making the top moulding frame from the glass bead moulding. I chose the beaded edge to serve as the top edge, thinking that it would stand up to use better than the thinner coved edge. Again, cut Low-profile Serving Tray the side pieces longer than needed, and cut the miter on one end of each of the long sides. Line up the miter of the top moulding (with the beaded edge up) with the mitered corner of the corner moulding frame. The bead will be the top edge of the tray. It's important to remember that the bead is the top when making the miter cuts. It's easy to get confident about the cuts and forget which edge is up. With the miters matched on the cut end, shift the bead moulding until its bottom edges are centered on the frame and make a pencil mark on both edges of the uncut end of the side piece to align it with the mitered corner. This will show you where to make the miter cut. Make the cut (remember to keep the bead side up), and clamp the stop in position for the next side piece to be cut exactly the same size as the first. Repeat the process for the short sides. Now dry-fit the glass bead frame on top of the corner moulding frame. Hopefully it's a good fit and close to being centered. Take the loose frame pieces and lay them on a flat surface in position for gluing. Put a light coating of glue on the miters and let them sit for 10 minutes. Then glue the joints together at opposite corners of the frame and tape the joints to hold them in place to dry for an hour or so. Repeat the gluing process for the other two corners when the first two are dry, forming the completed frame. Build Up and Glue Up Using a #120-grit sanding block and then #180 grit, sand all the surfaces smooth. Pay close attention to the mitered corners. They should be perfectly level. Always sand with the grain direction. Place a couple thick scraps of wood under the tray bottom to raise it up enough to allow access. Run a small bead of glue near the inside corner of the corner moulding frame and put the frame in place on the tray bottom. NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) MATERIAL □ 1 Tray bottom V2 14V2 19V2 Baltic birch plywood □ 4 Corner moulding frame 3/4 24* Pine □ 4 Glass bead moulding frame 1/2 9/l6 19* Pine □ 4 Feet 3/4 2V2 2V2 Pine * These measurements are longer than finished size. Cut miters to fit. I can see clearly now. Use clear packing tape to hold the glued mitered corners together. One piece of tape around the corner will hold the edges, then place another piece of tape underneath and pull the ends together above the joint to hold the corner in place. Run a small bead of glue centered on the bottom of the glass bead moulding and position it on top of the corner moulding frame. Use clear packing tape to hold it in place, then use small clamps on the corners and centers of the frame edges. Make sure there are no gaps between the mouldings and the tray bottom. Clean up any glue squeeze-out with a wet rag. When the glue is dry, remove the clamps and tape. Finish Up Using VV'-thick scrap wood, cut four 2l/i" squares for the tray feet. Sand them smooth and round the comers with a rasp and sandpaper. Glue and clamp the feet to the bottom of the tray, flush with the inside moulding corners. After a final once-over with a sanding block, paint or stain the tray, and apply a coat of spray lacquer to protect the surface. PW Linda is the art director of this magazine and new to the actual work of woodworking. Contact her at 513-531-2690x17396 or linda.watts@fwmedia.com. About This Column Our "I Can Do That" column features projects that can be completed by any woodworker with a modest (but decent) kit of tools in less than two days of shop time, and using raw materials that are available at any home center. We offer a free online manual in PDF format that explains all the tools and shows you how to perform the basic operations in a step-by-step format. You'll learn to rip with a jigsaw, crosscut with a miter saw and drill straight with the helpof our manual. Visit ICanDoThatExtras.com to download the free manual. 34 ■ Popular Woodworking February 2009 |
